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American Caesar 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2001/2002
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 2,217
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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On the onsight


American Caesar is a classic, all natural gear taste of Waterfall stemming with an all or nothing final run to the anchors over small wires....

Locate a short (25'), fat pillar with several different crack lines up it 30' right of Black and Tan staging area. The right/center line is the nicest, though expect some blocks. On top of this pillar are two bolts for optional belay, which is nice for the climber, maybe worse for the belayer.

American Caesar takes the steep, clean dihedral left of Tainted Love. From the top of the fat pillar, pass large leaning block via hands in slabby left facing dihedral and enter the steep jams? and hard stemming. The opening bit is just a taste of what is to come. The crack varies in size from tips to hands and always seems to be changing. Expect powerful stemming throughout, while placing an assortment of thin gear complimented by beefier pieces at points. When the gear runs out at the top, it's time to really turn it on.


About 30 feet right of Black and Tan. Look for squatty pillar with several different crack options. American Cesar is the right most dihedral from the top of fat pillar.


Everything from 00 Tcus to #2 camalots, a set of RP, or other offsets, small, medium, large wires, and if you happen to have them, 2 red Lowe Balls at the high crux will make you think that that the world is a right and just place. For the moment. Or placing them in the middle of the crux may fry you. It's commonly done without Loweballs.

Photos of American Caesar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting American casear
Onsighting American casear
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into it.
Heading into it.
Rock Climbing Photo: The full view, including Dan Foster with an attent...
The full view, including Dan Foster with an attent...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last rest before the top crux.
The last rest before the top crux.

Comments on American Caesar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Power stemming! This thing is a full value onsight. You don't need ball-nuts or brass for this bad boy but bring a solid lead head.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Nov 3, 2015

Man this thing is SO good! I was happy to have the red ballnut considering I took some whips on it. But I could see getting by without if you aren't quite at your limit. You do have some other bomber gear just below your feet as you pull the crux moves.

It was a bit lower on the route, through some 5.11 stemming a ways above your last piece, that had me sweating more than the crux!

Such a fun route, can't wait to get back on it!
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 20, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I didn't have Ballnuts, but I don't see how you could adequately protect this without RPs and/or offsets. Even with those I still had to run it from the crux to the anchor over a #2 HB offset and other RPs below that. The smallest cam I had was a black alien. Perhaps some of the smaller C3 or Metolius variants could be useful.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I got a bomber red alien in the last pod with a #4 nut above it. Those pieces were maybe 3 feet below my feet when I snagged the clipping jug at the anchor. Amazing stemming!

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