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Grand Falls Zawn
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American Beauty T 

American Beauty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 30, 2013

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Description 

The classic of the slab, big on adventure! This fine route follows crack systems up the back wall of Grand Falls Zawn in three pitches.

P1, 30m. From the ledges, start up the second crack from the left. Pretty steady climbing up the broken crack system leads to a decent ledge with a large block on, which can be slung for an anchor

P2, 50m. This is the big one! Continue up the thin crack off the left end of the belay ledge to a grassy ledge. Step right and make delicate moves up a thin crack and slab, passing another grassy spur on your right, aiming for the big roof. More classy slab climbing (small wire protection never too distant) leads to just underneath the roof, at which point traverse right to its narrowest point. Good holds above make pulling the overhang rather less traumatic than expected! Then move back left along the easier-angle slab to the base of a corner. Good rope management is necessary for this pitch!

P3, 20m. Climb the steep corner crack, with good holds on the left. An easy scramble up loose terrain gains the abseil point.

Location 

From ledges reached by the abseil described in the area text, start up the second crack from the left.

Protection 

Take lots of nuts and quickdraws for P2. Nothing bigger than about BD #1 required.


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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 30, 2013

British HVS 5a. A bit soft, but intimidating: there's no easier way out!

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