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Amen S 
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Amen 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeremy Nelson & Ken Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: -Jeremy Nelson on Jul 5, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Pitch 1 (14 bolts)
Face climb in-cut and grooves in rock past 5 bolts to a good ledge, continue moving up crux 5.10+(maybe harder) face through bolt line, thin ground up over bulge to a 2 bolt belay anchor with chains. 100ft.

Location 

Start 15 ft. right of Communion Route

Protection 

15-Quick draws & shoulder runners! Need 1-60M rope (rappel route!)


Comments on Amen Add Comment
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By David Steele
Aug 24, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

If you're going all the way out there for Communion, and you don't mind loose rock, and you can climb the grade, you'd be silly not to hit Amen. It was fun.

5.10b at the hardest move, but you can detour climber's left anytime you want things to be easier.

Final two mercy jugs to the chains are both loose blocks. So that's a thing.

This route could really benefit from another scrub to better define what's on and off.
By Ken Miller
Sep 4, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Thanks for the comments David. Glad you enjoyed our routes. We do need to scrub more on Amen, and should be climbed to the right of the bolts....which does make the climb significantly harder, however, climbing through the bolts or to the left would warrant a grade of 10a or 10b. Once we get back up there and scrub, we'll have a better idea. At this time, we also have started 2 other routes. More details to come............

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