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A.M.C. Route Variation 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Ron Birk on Aug 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Closeup of the AMC Route (green) and the AMC Route...

Description 

A really nice route at an extraordinary scenic location. Three long pitches of mostly face climbing along cracks and flakes.

P1. Climb the committing right crack and through a weakness. Continue along the face, passing some bushes, veering slightly right all the way to a two bolt anchor on a nice tree ledge.

P2. Continue straight up the exciting face along more cracks and flakes to another two bolt anchor, just below a big tree filled ledge. Here you can optionally keep climbing (or move the belay) up to the trees and set up a belay at the base of the next face.

P3. Climb the crack filled face and then follow just right of the exposed arete all the way to a nice ledge. From here you can scramble to the top and enjoy the views!! A trail leads to the Loop Tr and back out.

Note: The starting moves on p1 are hard for the grade with poor protection. A variation is to start further left and work your way right as you feel comfortable. Also, this cliff gets windy and pay attention to loose rocks.

Location 

Left side of the cliff at the end of the climbers trail. This route starts just to the right of AMC Route.

Protection 

Standard rack. Two bolted anchors for P1 and P2.


Photos of A.M.C. Route Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the very easy and delightful 3rd pitc...
Looking down the very easy and delightful 3rd pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch can be very safely led by taking t...
The first pitch can be very safely led by taking t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the climb. The left crack and big v notch ...
BETA PHOTO: Base of the climb. The left crack and big v notch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The blue line is the way we went on P.2, and it fe...
The blue line is the way we went on P.2, and it fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ugly feet contest atop the 3rd pitch. It was a yuc...
Ugly feet contest atop the 3rd pitch. It was a yuc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Birk on P2?
Ron Birk on P2?
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of AMC Route Variation P3 which goes ...
Another view of AMC Route Variation P3 which goes ...
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, top of P3. From here you can ...
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, top of P3. From here you can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, higher up on P3.
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, higher up on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, P3
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, P3
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, P2
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, P2
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, P1 anchor.
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, P1 anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, higher up on P1
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, higher up on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: AMC Route Variation, P1
BETA PHOTO: AMC Route Variation, P1

Comments on A.M.C. Route Variation Add Comment
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By Ryan Gibbs
Aug 11, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Keep your eyes peeled for the delicious blueberry bush on P2. A treat to eat them while on lead with an amazing view.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 8, 2017

This is a wonderful backcountry route. Well worth the effort...and the effort is considerable. It takes us almost 1.5 hours to get to the base, and while the trail starts off mellow enough, the last two-thirds involve really steep hiking. Take the Loop Trail for an hour or so until you top out on a flat spot and can see the cliff up and left. Continue hiking the loop trail for about 150 feet to the second flat spot and a better view of the cliff. At this point the Loop Trail will go slightly right, but you will go left on the obvious abandoned trail. You'll know you're on the right path if you cross a little swampy area within 250 feet of leaving the flat spot. The trail is easy to follow, gets a bit tricky once in the talus, but the old blue marking are still visible on the boulders. Just keep heading up and slightly left through the talus field until you re-enter the woods, and after another 200 feet or so the trail will deposit you right at the rope-up spot below the first pitch. There is NO buswhacking to reach the base of the route.

Once on the route you will find 300+ feet of greatness with tremendous view of wilderness in all directions (you can't see any roads, and just one house). We did the route in three belayed pitches: 1) started in the left-hand crack and then trended up and slightly right to the juggy little roof and then up the wonderful face above, 130 feet, 5.6 and totally G-rated, 2) we wandered up and left and then way right and then back up and left again (see blue line on beta pic) and we found this pitch devious, tricky to protect, and hard for the grade, 100 feet, 5.6+; there are reportedly several other options for this pitch; then we moved the belay 40 feet up to the next tree ledge below... 3) up the lovely low-angled face to a scrumptious ledge with perfect cam anchor in a horizontal, 70 feet, 5.4; this it THE place to hang out on the route and enjoy the incredible view of nuthin' but northwoods beauty, 4) scramble up and slightly right for 100 feet (3rd class slabs and bushes), then left and up 50 feet to an open ledge among the scrub spruces; from here the climber's herd-path to the summit is obvious, and it takes all of five minutes to get to the top. From the top, we hiked east down the hiking trail to the saddle, dropped our stuff, and then hiked ten minutes further up the main trail to the next summit where there is a great view of the little alpine tarn in the bowl below the summit; thence back to the packs and down the Loop Trail (VERY steep) back out. This is great. Do it.

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