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1. Whitney-Gilman Area
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Ambrosia T 
Meatgrinder T 
Whitney Gilman Ridge T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Elms & Andy Tuthill 1975
Page Views: 3,982
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Ambrosia


Perfect hands in the back of a really tight v notch. Climb up this with great gear up to a small roof, pass this on the right to a stance. Up 10' of tight fingers and another 10' of perfect handcrack to the ledge. There is a slung block to belay from. We did this as a one pitch climb, it does connect with WG, but that is for another day. If you like handcracks, this is second only to reppy's on cannon!


400 feet downhill and to the left of WG, 200 feet left of meatgrinder is this perfect hand crack. Look for an obvious left facing tight V-groove.


Standard rack with 2-2 and 2-3. Save a 3 for the top!!!

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 21, 2009

Do this route!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 7, 2010

speaking of meatgrinder ??????
By Michael Z.
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did it and Meatgrinder, thanks guys
By Theriault
From: Quebec, Quebec
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Do it! +1!!
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P2 starts out nice, up just right of the belay; the gear and climbing is better than it looks from below. Then you get a lot of "choose your own adventure", where the easiest lines aren't too challenging, or you can choose interesting variations. The rock quality detereorates higher up, becoming scary -- I pulled loose a microwave-sized block with very little force. Time to exit right, joining W-G at their third belay ledge.

edit-- Sykes' guidebook says up and *left* from the belay, not joining Whitney-G until after the fourth pitch. So, um, I did the FA of a variation?

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