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Amber Waves of Pain T 
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Amber Waves of Pain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
Page Views: 4,259
Submitted By: Tommy Ormond on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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into the notch


From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.

In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.


This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.


Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.

Photos of Amber Waves of Pain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: getting to 2nd hang
getting to 2nd hang
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd hang
2nd hang
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st hang
1st hang

Comments on Amber Waves of Pain Add Comment
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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Dec 11, 2009

The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag.
By vanishing spy
Mar 21, 2010

The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a).
By Spiro
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

long reach for some...
By Tommy Ormond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 25, 2010

Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it.
By Alec Orenstein
From: Gallup, NM
May 25, 2016

Best 10a in the Gunks.
By SethG
May 26, 2016

Better than Coprophagia??!?

I agree, Amber Waves is awesome. Maybe not THE best but a contender!
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I got spanked on this, spoiled by unsustsained gunks routes. Also could not figure out where the green cam fit at the bottom of the first hang - lobes seemed uneven. Backed it up with a funky #1. Small nut might have been better. They held a couple good falls...great route however.

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