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Amber Lies T,TR 
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Amber Lies 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 24, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This climbs the arete on the right. It has tricky protection before the bolts. Thin, angled sidepulls.

Protection 

2 bolts up top for the anchors on an easily attainable ledge. 3 draw for the climb and a few small to medium pieces for the spaces.


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By Vince Romney
May 29, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is actually a pretty fun route, but the chossy mess at the base of the arete is a major detractor. There is only one location for pro before the bolt (about 10' up), and it's amidst the choss and suspect at best. The crux seemed to be a mandatory, off-balance and height-dependent reach to surmount a blank section. Once through that section, the rest of the climb was straight forward, pumpy climbing. Worth the short hike up the talus.
By Scott Unice
Jun 6, 2017

The thin vertical crack at the bottom takes a small stopper at least it did back in 1990 when I put this up. Take a few varies size small wireds with you. Seems to me I got one jammed in so bad I had to leave it.

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