REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amba T 
Bengal Spice T 
Gold Card Indirect, The T 
Gold Card, The T 
Respect Your Elders T 

Amba 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Barlow with help from Becca Schild and Justin Talbot
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer to early Fall
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: Christopher Barlow on Sep 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
David Fay on the last of the three crux sections.

Description 

In certain tribes in Siberia, Amba refers to a mythical wise old man embodied as a tiger.

Like Siberian tigers, routes as good as this one are rare. Amba, the route, climbs a soaring seam on the steep right panel of the Main Wall. Begin up an easy corner with a few loose blocks and trend up and right along seams to a stance near a ledge of the right edge of the wall. A challenging - and slightly runout - sequence back left lands one below a striking crack up the black streak. Technical boulder problems and thin gear lead up this crack, eventually arcing back into the main dihedral of Respect Your Elders. One can finish on the easier upper corner of that route, or get full value and bust back right and up the final pumpy climbing on the headwall and making hero moves right to the arete and further to the anchor shared with Respect Your Elders.

At the risk of falling into the first-ascentionist-hypebole trap, I wager this is one of the top 5.12 all-trad pitches in the state.

Protection 

A double set of cams from purple Metolius to hand-sized, including small nuts and RPs. Take care protecting the sequence getting established at the bottom of the crack; a #1 Camalot or equivalent can be placed high enough to keep you away from the low angle start.


Photos of Amba Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Fay at an ok rest after the crux sections.
David Fay at an ok rest after the crux sections.

Comments on Amba Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About