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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wolfgang Gullich 1981
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014

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The rope is on Amazonenpfeiler.


This short technical line offers good rock and some fun moves, but is unfortunately marred by a burly, height-dependent crux. The route begins at an enticing set of huecos that have surely lured hundreds of climbers onto it’s comparatively blank headwall.

A few brief glory cranks end at an awkward, bottoming crack. Work up the crack, and then make a leftward traverse to a pumpy stance below a slight bulge. A huge wingspan or a big dyno is the key to the bulge. Above, easier ground leads to the anchor.


On the far right end of the cliff, this is the last route with any chalk, just around the corner behind a free-standing pillar.


3 bolts to an anchor.

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