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Amazon Tower
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Amazon Tower - Original Route T 
Four Peckers and an Amazon T 

Amazon Tower - Original Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1+ [details]
FA: Dave Mealey, Matt Vanosdell, Andy Roberts 8/98
Page Views: 1,818
Submitted By: A. Roberts on Oct 14, 2008

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This is an airy way to get off a tower!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The route starts on the right side of the west face:
Pitch 1. Start by climbing 15' up a left facing off-width chimney to gain a ledge. Then up 15' of thin fingers with a couple of face holds to pass the crux (10b), from there the crack turns into a nice hand crack for another 80'. Bolt belay.
Pitch 2. Head left past some loose rock, then up a wide crack, setting up a belay after 50', slightly left of the crack to avoid any loose rock from the next pitch. Can be combined with the next pitch.
Pitch 3. Continue up the wide hand crack going through a bulge then it opens up to a chimney that leads to Defecation Ledge. (11a) 2 Bolt Belay
Pitch 4. Squeeze through to the South face traversing right to a semi rotten crack that gets solid after 5'. Clean aid (or free) up a #3 metolious size crack which becomes wide before it ends. Clip a bolt above the end of the crack. Continue on aid up the left side of the South face, moving up and right,using a mixture of cam placements, hooking, a 1/2" angle, and a knifeblade, to where it gets blank. Then follow four more bolts with drilled pecker holes in between (a cheater stick may be useful, we were short on bolts & time) to gain the ledge just 6' below the summit rock. 2 Bolt belay
Boulder to the top! 3 Double rope rappels.


Located over Hurrah Pass off of the Lockhart Basin Trail road. Turn left at the wind caves, follow the dirt road up the canyon left of the Carousel Butte. The tower is a 400' thin semi-detached tower on the right side of the Windgate wall to the east (left). Park and start hiking cross country going past the tower by a 100 yards to a steep drainage.


Double set of cams, with 3 #3 camalots, 2 #4's, Extra #3 metolious, Knifeblade, LA, 1/2" angle, 2-3 Peckers, Talon hook.

Photos of Amazon Tower - Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's a vertical pano with a wider view.  Solstic...
Here's a vertical pano with a wider view. Solstic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam Lightner on the tyrolean back to the rim.
Sam Lightner on the tyrolean back to the rim.
Rock Climbing Photo: The last pitch. The crack ends at the top of the l...
The last pitch. The crack ends at the top of the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy and Dave hanging out a little too long on the...
Andy and Dave hanging out a little too long on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit self portrait.
Summit self portrait.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to the west face of the tower.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the west face of the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper half of the South face, with the Carouse...
BETA PHOTO: The upper half of the South face, with the Carouse...

Comments on Amazon Tower - Original Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 25, 2009
By David Mealey
From: Moab,Utah
Feb 18, 2009

I believe the Amazon and Solstice tower are both located in Dripping springs basin which is one basin north of Lockhart
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2009

Yea, at the time I didn't know how to set up a new area. Is there any way this can be fixed?
By Ben Folsom
Feb 20, 2009

Contact the administrator for this section and they can help you out on changing the area. Cool to see photos & beta about this tower, thanks!
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 23, 2009

This is a cool tower. The register on top only had the firsty's in it, though I think Ralph and Nate climbed it.

To find the thing go to the road that loops around the butte about a mile from the end of the Anticline road (this will make sense when you get there. Park 3/4 of the way around the loop and walk south by southwest to the rim. The hand drawn map above shows the tower being at what you could call the 12:00 from the loop road. Actually, its at the 9:00.

Brad B. and I put a new rout up on it that goes from the notch. I think Brad is making a page for it. We beefed up the anchors on the rim and the summit so they can handle a tyrolean.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Feb 27, 2009

To add an area, go to the Moab Area page:

then click on the blue box that says "Add Area"

But I recall I did intend for the Lockhart Basin "area" to include all of the climbs between Indian Creek and Kane Creek, reached by hiking from the Lockhart Basin Road. The area is huge, but has very few climbs, and likely to stay this way. Is it really worth dividing it into two? I think I screwed up with the area name; perhaps it could be renamed something like Lockhart Basin Road, as this road is the basic access for everything. Would that work?

By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2009

Hey Crusher,
That make sense to me. If you change Lockhart Basin to "Road" that would cover where these towers are. We would just need to have Amazon and Solstice Towers taken out of road side hoodoos and into the Lockhart Basin Road area. You should check out these towers. The approach's are pretty brutal but they are cool routes to really neat summits. The way Sam and Brad accessed Amazon Tower from the Anticline Overlook road is a bit of a drive but a really short hike to the rim behind the tower (where there are rap bolts). I'm interested in seeing info on the new route they did. Cool pictures of the Tyrolean.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 2, 2009

I can't have both routes and areas within an area, so you would have to add areas under lockhart basin for these towers. I'll keep an eye out and move the routes whenever something logical pops up.
By Ben Folsom
Mar 2, 2009

It seems to me like just adding another couple of areas under the Lockhart Basin Road area. That road from Kane Creek to Indian Creek should be one main area (The "Lockhart Basin Road", since that's what it is). With a sub area for Amazon and Solstice Tower. The Roadside Hoodoos as another sub area, and another sub area which would include Tristin's Tower etc... Then if other things get done and reported that are located along that road in the future, they can also be added as their own sub areas. Dripping Springs Basin seems like a good sub area name for where Amazon and Solstice are located.
By Brad Brandewie
Mar 3, 2009

I agree with Ben. The Lochart Basin Road Area should have sub ares. Dripping Springs Basin for Amazon and Solstice... Lochart Basin for Trisstin's etc. That way we can have a set of directions for each sub area as they will all have different approaches. It's also nice to have a place for info specific to the sub area in which you are climbing. For instance I would never have known that Amazon Tower is in Dripping Springs Basin.
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 3, 2009

Do you want to set up the Dripping Springs area, since it is fresh in your mind. Or would you like me to do it?
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 4, 2009

I have an opinion on this boys, and it is of course the best one.
The area should be called Anticline Road. Yes there are other ways to reach the Tower, but using the Anticline Road by far makes the most sense. There are other towers and crags being developed out the Anticline as well and having it as a route name would encompass them... Enchanted Mesa, the thing I did with The SAG last year, etc.
By Ben Folsom
Mar 4, 2009

That makes sense as long as the best approach is from the Anticline Road. If the approach is on the Lockhart Basin road then I believe it should be from that area. Roadside Hoodoos and Tristins tower should still be located on the Lockhart road.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 20, 2009

Its like 40 feet... pretty much level.
By Brad Brandewie
Jul 21, 2009

Here's one way to do it...

By Ben Kiessel
Jul 21, 2009

Girls Scouts!
Hey Matt you want to climb Tehipite?
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 22, 2009

I love climbing with you guys... I"m laughing my ass off in a coffee shop right now.
By Matt Pickren
Jul 25, 2009

See Brad, Sam is nice. Sam, want to climb Tehipite?

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