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Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets T 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 
Rasp S 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Amazing Grace 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Larry Conrad, Mike Schmitt 1974
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: cmj Jenkins on May 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Passing under the Dirty Old Man P2 right-facing co...

Description 

This route traverses the South Peak East Face to the top of the Soler Flake. It has serious run outs and is infrequently done, so expect to be brushing off lichen to find your holds (some of which may break...). This description differs from that in Tony Barnes' book, but the line was logical and ended at the same place. Please contact me if you can help reconcile the differences.

Protection is infrequent but (mostly) solid, but falls shouldn't be dangerous until you get to the last 30 ft of the route (follower would hit the Soler Flake full force in a fall... bolt could probably protect that).

P1. Start at a tree near the end of the second pitch of Old Ladies. Traverse right and slightly up, passing under the right facing corner in the second pitch of Dirty Old Man. End at the left facing corner a short ways into the second pitch of Frosted Flake. (~100ft)

P2. Traverse right around the corner onto the lichen-covered face. Pass the shuts on T. R. Rap and Tap to a thin vertical crack. Follow this straight up to a set of shuts (end here to skip the dangerous traverse). Continue right and very slightly up to head directly for the top of Soler Flake. (~115ft)

I'd probably give this route two stars if it weren't for the final traverse. End at the last set of shuts for a bit of 5.7 adventure.

Location 

First pitch has plenty of landmarks in the above description.

For P2 -- If you look at a picture of the east face, you notice two massive, nearly horizontal, right-leaning seams down and left of the summit. You pass under the left-most, and through the left end of the right seam.

Protection 

Standard rack. Add small tri cams.


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