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Amazing Grace T 
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Amazing Grace 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Tony Calderone 2007
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 26, 2008

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Craig "the Deadhead" Martin on the 2nd p...

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  • Description 

    P1- Climb up a dirty crack on a slab beneath a small roof. From crack force yourself out left to a stance and a bolt. Clip the bolt and either go left or force yourself to commit to slabbing straight above the bolt (fun). Clip a bolt at a roof and climb over using big holds passing a belay rap anchor. Clip a few more bolts ramble up the slab passing a large ledge and one more bolt to semi hanging 2 ring belay/rap station. 5.7R 180'

    P2- Clip bolt just above the belay below the west facing dihedral. The next bolt is about 30 feet up and to the left of the dihedral. We climbed in the dihedral for a bit then stepped out and made some committing moves to gain the bolt (see page photo). Once the bolt is gained big holds on varnished rock bring you to a sub station. Pass the sub belay and climb up nice features passing 3 bolts, one of which is missing a hanger (it still has the nut so you can slide a wire nut over it)to a semi hanging belay at 2 rings. 5.7+ R 165'

    P3- From belay climb up water streak to a mini roof placing dubious cams in rotten rock. Tiptoe along the rotten foot rail until you can sling a tree growing out of a crack. A few bolts bring you to a stance and sub belay. Pass this and make a step down to the left and friction up nice red varnish. From the top of the varnish plug a good nut and step up over the mini bulge, from the top of this a couple of bolts bring you up near the arete and a 2 bolt belay. 5.8 R 195'

    P4- Slab you way up the coarse granite on the arete. A bolt is about 25 feet up. Pass this to an obvious belay at 2 bolts. 5.6R 60ft.


    Hike 600+ feet up the eastern edge of Lots of Balls. You will notice a big vegetated cleft running vertically. Patient Pace is on the west side, Amazing Grace starts on the clean slab to the east. Look for bolts that lead to a small roof.


    14 QD's nice if linking past the sub belays. A light rack of TCU's up to #1 camalot and a light set of medium nutz. Slings nice. If you wanted to stop at the sub belays a 50m rope is all you need to descend as the raps are rarely over 25m.

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