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Amazing Face 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equipped by Rick Leitner, March 1998. FFA: Chris Alber, April 1998.
Page Views: 2,172
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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  • Description 

    This is a cool route up the smooth headwall left of Meteor Roadblock. Fun 5.11 leads to steeper and harder climbing. There is a little glue but no chipping.

    There is a 2nd pitch.


    6 or 7 bolts.

    Photos of Amazing Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Set up for the toss to the lip.
    Set up for the toss to the lip.

    Comments on Amazing Face Add Comment
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    By Joe Collins
    Jun 28, 2002

    Surprisingly fun climbing! The last move is a ridiculous toss for which I absolutely could not get the feet right. Are people tossing all the way to the jug or to the micro crimps on the slopey lip? Beta please! The bolts are close enough together though that you can yard up to the last bolt and work the crux on TR.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 2, 2002

    Re: beta. I went left hand to the right crimper on the slopey lip. It's tough to hit right, so I tried to do it as statically as possible.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 9, 2002

    This route has a 2nd pitch that is pretty good -- rated 5.11c in Rolofson. Technical stemming up a slightly overhanging wall -- a junior version of Meteor Roadblock. A couple of the key holds are covered in guano.
    By Dan Green
    Jul 20, 2003

    This route is great with two dynamic moves in a row. Careful when you throw the dyno, it's easy to over toss for it. Also, after I make the first right hand lunge to the sidepull and stack my left hand under my right on the tiny edge, I set my feet to the right and dyno up with my left hand. This beta worked well for me. And to whoever stole my biners off the top of this route I say, "You, my cheap conscienceless sociopath, are a tool!".
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 1, 2005
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Moderate climbing to a rest to a V5 boulder problem.
    By Deathkills
    From: North Denver CO
    Apr 24, 2008
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    I loved this route... it was my first for the grade... the book said 12d. So I hope it is solid....
    By Kaelen Willaims
    Jun 12, 2008
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Easily the best route at the Bowling Alley in my opinion; it would be clasic if the first half was 5.12 instead of 5.10.

    By the way, what's with all this talk of dynoing? I locked off on a sidepull crimp and used a little momentum, definitely not a dyno.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2008
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    There is a left-leaning, slightly gaston crimp 10" down from the jug. I was able to go to it and then bump to the top. My left foot is backstepped on the previous crimp. But for me (6', +2) it's easy enough to just go all the way. Deadpoint at least, might call it a dyno.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 3, 2013

    This route is really fun! If the upper headwall was only longer, say 80 feet of that slightly overhanging crimping, it would be mega-classic. Still quite a nice route with memorable and fun moves. Probably one of the better routes I have done at this crag. It reminded me just a little tiny bit of the face moves on Lucid Creaming. Big moves to positive but small holds. I think most people would agree and smile after doing this crux, it's brilliant!!
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Jan 22, 2017

    I would second Ken Leiden's comments about the upper pitch. Not nearly as good as the first but worth doing if up on the ledge warming up.

    You can avoid the guano if you head left at the headwall instead of moving right to the pillar. Careful hand placement on the pillar would probably work also, but it'd be tough to see the correct spot from below.

    More fun as a warm-up than Termites.

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