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Choose one of two 5.6s- follow a fantastic crack with good low angle feet on the arete, or go into the chimney for a real snuggle-fest. Facing uphill or downhill changes the feel of the chimney greatly and there are some VERY tight squeezes, but good ledges through most of the climb mean that there is slow but steady progress.
Climb up the chimney between Dinkum wall and Areta Franklin Buttress. This is uphill from the gap walkthrough. It doesn't always appear so, but you can walk through here to the Boulder Gulch.
Toprope off bolted anchor.
By Tim Camuti
From: Placerville, CA
Mar 14, 2011
Climbed both face style and as a chimney. VERY different climbs. You are encouraged to do both- the chimney start is best a few feet inside, not right at the entrance.
Jan 1, 2017
Lead this route the other day, very fun. Gets pretty narrow up top but feels solid.