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Unsorted Routes:

Amaretto Corner 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 5,053
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 9, 2001  with updates from Matt Pesce

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Greg Jackson afternooning on Amaretto Corner. (sc...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This superb route is just around the corner to the right of Supercrack. About 20-30 feet past Supercrack, this is the shorter right-facing corner. It starts out as a beautiful hand crack, and gets wider as you go up. The crux is at the top where the crack gets wider as the crack moves over a bulge. There are some decent face holds out left to make the moves doable. I think the 5.11 rating is for pitch 2, but, pitch one is maybe a 9 or 10 still?? Either way, there are nice chains after you mantle to the top. Good fun, I'd say 3 stars, but it's not as good as Supercrack!

Edit from Matt Pesce: P 2 is classic big fingers/ thin hands corner. 80' 5.11. Gear: 2-3 ea. .5-1 Camalot and maybe 1 #2


P1: Mostly 1s and 2s for the first half. I used a #3, and a #4.5 for the upper half. For P2: 2-3 ea. .5-1 Camalot and maybe 1 #2

Photos of Amaretto Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: yeah about that #4 cam the book didn't mention...
yeah about that #4 cam the book didn't mention...
Rock Climbing Photo: starting up... ps... bring a #4
starting up... ps... bring a #4
Rock Climbing Photo: off width at the top
off width at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Amaretto
Rock Climbing Photo: Amaretto Roof Move
Amaretto Roof Move
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Amaretto Corner.  Montrail Spliiter Camp.  O...
Me on Amaretto Corner. Montrail Spliiter Camp. O...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brittany Griffith leading Amaretto Corner.  Montra...
Brittany Griffith leading Amaretto Corner. Montra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the offwidth.
Contemplating the offwidth.

Comments on Amaretto Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2015
By Friso Schlottau
Mar 31, 2002

Terrific Route! The upper half of the first pitch (all we did) is a bit funky, with sliding fist jams - chicken wing things, but a great route. Overhang is weird, but easier than it looks.
By Bernard Vachon
Apr 16, 2002

I climbed the first pitch at the end of the day expecting to finish my day with an easy 5.9 pitch (well as easy as 5.9 crack climbing can be in IC), but to my surprise it felt nothing like 5.9. It may not be as long as all the 5.10 cracks on supercrack buttress (3 AM, No name crack...), but I think it is technically just as challenging as any of those routes. It has some off-fist sections so #4 camalots are nice for the top section. I would give the first pitch a 5.10 rating with.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 17, 2002

I'd say the first pitch is easy 10 since I got up it with a minimum of flailing, which is unusual for me on Indian Creek 10s. Great first pitch - especially the hands section.
By TuffGong
May 9, 2002

Pitch 2 is a classic Indian Creek Corner on dark varnish. A layback event on mostly #1.5 and #2 Friends. Don't miss it.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2003

The 1999 Sharp End guidebook states that "pitch one goes from thin hands to fist (with an offwidth move)". This is not accurate. It starts as hands (#2 Camalot) and quickly goes to #3 Camalot size. The last 15-20' of the first pitch is #4 Camalot size, awkward, and definitely offwidth. I would recommend bringing 2 #4 Camalots, or be willing to scooch a single one up for 15' or so.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 9, 2006

Mike is right, this thing gets into the #3s pretty quick. A great pitch though for how short it is. I think I only placed one #4 close to the top, although a #4.5 would protect the mantel. Definately a grunt fest to finish.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

P1 is probably 9+. Gets a little wide at the top. Two new #4 camalots worked for me but you could bring a 4 and a 5 and be happy too. Pull the grunty OW bulge to gain the belay. Cool pitch for sure!

P2 is hard 11. Right facing corner up off fingers for me. Mainly red aliens, 1 - 1.5 friends, .5 - .75 camalots. A few smaller pieces is a good idea. Sustained and tough. Start is a ways away from the P1 belay. Great line though!

4 star for sure!

By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
May 28, 2008

Excellent climbing. The wide section above the pod is 5.10 OW but below it is 5.9 climbing. Good stuff! I would like to get it clean next time... Overall, the pitch is 5.10.
By Martin Harris
Apr 21, 2012

I agree w/ 5.10 ow I took the whip on hand stacks and proceeded to puke
It was epic. I know I should be ashamed but I am proud to have stuck with the stacks instead of lie backing. It was a memorable first ow lead for sure.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

Description could read as follows: This excellent 2 pitch climb is located to the right of Supercrack. Easily located by the historic "Alma Redd" rock art on the wall next to the 1st pitch. Hands quickly becomes big hands then a few OW moves gain a ledge with nice 2 bolt anchors (5.9+). P2 climbs the beautiful Amaretto corner past a small roof to 2 bolt anchors (5.11) big fingers to thin hands.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

Pro. P1: #2 - #5 w/xtra #3 & 4. P2: .4 - 2 (2) .5, (3) .75 & (2) 1 Camalots
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
May 18, 2015

Anybody have any information on the ending splitter just left of Amaretto? It's just right of the arete. The the climb uses the #2 crack that ends into a 00 crack that forces you left on the arete that quickly leads into a boulder problem that leads to a balancy right leaning moves that gains the #3s section of Amaretto. We got it on toprope, and noticed a chopped bolt at the balancy traverse. Maybe 11+/12- pg13?
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Yep I agree with Matt….

This is a TWO PITCH route!!!! Hence the rating. The second pitch is significantly harder than many 5.11 cracks at the creek so worthy a plus rating IMHO……

And for all those giving P1 a 5.10 rating…… well you all need to learn to climb OW. LOL
The exit move is easy 5.9 hand stacking with bomber feet!!!! Gear for P1 in order: BD 2, 3, 3, 4, 5 thats is all. If needed, one can walk a piece….
P2 is simply amazing, a very crisp edge in a stunning corner. Liebcking???? Naw, just work those perfect big fingers, ring locks to thin hands. Glorious!!!!!!

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