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After All This Time S 
Always S 
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Always 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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love that left foot... you cant miss it! PS this i...

Description 

Another little gem perched up here above the masses. Interesting challenging bits separated by good rest stances. Climb a strenuous start trough some interesting quartz holds with a comfortable stance for clipping the second bolt. The next section is my favorite part of the route, an interesting delicate mantle past the 3rd bolt on to a slab and another stance. One more briefly perplexing bulge leads to an easy slab reminiscent of Bolt Line down at the meadows that will bring you another 25 feet to the anchor.

Location 

Currently the middle route. Look for the quartz holds and a low bolt a few feet right of the anchor for Black Mambs.

Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. If you have a stick clip, Clip the second from the ground but it can be reached safely without... just gotta think it out.


Photos of Always Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: had to add just one more... this might be my only ...
had to add just one more... this might be my only ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie cruising the final slab section to the ancho...
Torie cruising the final slab section to the ancho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie about to surmount the final bulge before the...
Torie about to surmount the final bulge before the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler down low in the quartz section
Tyler down low in the quartz section
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at Torie...
looking up at Torie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler approaching the fun mantle move.
Tyler approaching the fun mantle move.

Comments on Always Add Comment
Show which comments
By ward smith
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Maybe should add a bolt since many will not stick-cip the second, and a ledge fall is assured.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 7, 2015

I just can't imagine where I'd stop to clip another one. But I suppose I will have to add a bolt. That part used to be inconsequential before I pried all the good holds off :( so sad to see them go. Glad it still climbs well however :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2015

Ok, done :) added another bolt down low and even found a way to clip it comfortably... Enjoy!
By Ladd
Administrator
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great line, made better after the first move is out of the way.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very hard start. Climbing the quartz is really weird——there are no comfortable holds. Until you hit the slab, the thing feels touch-and-go the whole time.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 1, 2015

I have really good beta for the start... the whole thing feels... fun... Wish I knew how you all were doing it... I'm a curious guy... glad you enjoyed it Ladd, I know you know rumney 5.10s ;)
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Now, I haven't climbed Sidewalk Surfing or Static Cling, but the way I did the start felt super tenuous. I faced the right angle corner on the left, put my left foot high in the inside of the open book, and smeared & scrabbled with my right foot on the sheer wall to the right of the corner. I used the good left hand sidepull, then reached way up with my right to the quartzite bulbous mound. I matched on that and hauled myself up.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 4, 2015

right on... I do similar but I start on 2 nice crimps inches apart that are a little hidden just left of the arête... I smear my right foot about 10 inches off the ground... left foot smear/edge where you described... I hit that quartz mound with right then left hand... left foot on the arête, right foot on a decent small lump on the smooth wall just right of the arête... I then reach out wide right in to the other corner for a good solid hold... foot on far right wall... left foot up to perch on good quartz hold... one more wide right foot and a hand out on a spike to gain a no hands rest before balancing up the quartz to the overlap which I see as the crux of the route...
Cheers :)