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Alum Springs

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Alum Springs Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.288, -77.4835 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,564
Administrators: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Ball on Feb 18, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The stairs leading to the cliff.

Description 

Alum Springs is a public park in Fredericksburg with a long but relatively low bouldering wall.

Getting There 

Take I-95 to Exit 130A. Travel on Route 3 East for about 1.6 miles and passing under Route 1. Take a right at the light onto Greenbrier Dr and follow it to the end of the road. You will pass a (usually unmanned) gatehouse and will have to drive through a small creek to get into the park. Park and walk to the back of the lot (South) and up the hill. Follow the trail to the right for a short distance and you will see steps leading down to the right. You will see the climbing area from the base of the steps.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Alum Springs
Rock Climbing Photo: BBCC problem sequence

BBCC (Blueberry Cunton Candy) V2 5+  Virginia : DC & Northern VA Region : Alum Springs
The route starts directly under a big blue piece of graffiti, there is a big jug for both of your hands start with your feet on small foot holds under the start. The first move from the start is a big up left to a large pocket. Then a right up to a flat shelf. Next come down to the long sloppery shelf, match up, cross over (left over right). Reach for the two finger pocket around the corner of the rock. Finally, left up to two finger pocket in the upper middle of the face. Top out on the corner ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Virginia

Photos of Alum Springs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sign along the trail.
Sign along the trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Driving across the creek.
Driving across the creek.
Rock Climbing Photo: The gatehouse:  WELCOME TO ALUM SPRINGS PARK  Hour...
BETA PHOTO: The gatehouse: WELCOME TO ALUM SPRINGS PARK Hour...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the length of the Alum Springs boulde...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the length of the Alum Springs boulde...

Comments on Alum Springs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
May 22, 2014
Are there actual access issues here?
By John Tran
Apr 7, 2015
No access issues here. I went there today and the park has seems to be improving. There is now an paved biking trail that leads directly to the rocks. So all you have to do is walk on the bike path till you reach the first set of stairs on the right and follow those to the rocks.
By Josh No-Tell
Oct 13, 2015
Just went to this sport for the first time and lived almost right across the street for about two years. So glad to say I finally discovered it. There are several different routes to the climbing area. The one mentioned here will do, but you can also arrive there via the trail to the left at the back of the children's play area and go either along the waterline (upstream) or along the ridgeline for a better view of the area and you will actually be atop the ridge your climbing below.

As for the spot itself, yes it is outdoors and if there is rain within the last few days it will be muddy. Even though the cliff's provide shelter from the rain, the seepage through the cracks leave some spots muddy and make shoe grip virtually non-existent. But overall it is fairly nice climbing. Some holds are fairly glossy and difficult to grab for me as a beginner. But there is some seriously bouldering to be had there. The only thing I do not like is that the fall surface buts up against another drop into the water below, so be careful how you fall and don't roll off. Bring a spotter to ensure you're good but again s/he doesn't have much room to work with.

I think this would be a pretty sweet but short lead/sport climb route or even a top rope in some areas that are a bit flatter. But that is just my opinion since there isn't many other options in the FXBG area.

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