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Adventures of the Leper Nurse T 
Alternative Medicines T 
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Alternative Medicines 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Matt Tackett, Jeremy Egleston, 2005
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Alternative Medicines

Description 

This is a good moderate dihedral that eats up gear and is a great option if you are in the area. The route dries quickly compared to other lines at the wall. The orange lichen look sort of like lava flowing out of the rock.

Start off making some easy step ups to get established in the dihedral. Get to a wide section and make some difficult steps (crux). Continue up using the face or dihedral to climb to the anchors, which are shared with No Sleep...

Location 

Just past No Sleep Til' Campton at a nice flat area. This is the obvious slabby very featured dihedral with some really cool looking orange lichen on the left face.

Protection 

Single rack, nuts, tricams, optional #4 Camalot for the wide section. Two bolt anchor at the top. Rappel with a 60m rope.


Photos of Alternative Medicines Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alternative Medicines
Alternative Medicines
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary enjoying some fun stemming.
Mary enjoying some fun stemming.

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By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Unpleasant start gives way to good moderate climbing. Note this area sees little traffic, I have seen wasps on this route in the same hole about half way up two different years.

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