REI Community
Hexenküche
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allgäuer Traum S 
Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 
Athos S 
Baba Jaga S 
Belohnung S 
Crash 
Devil Wall S 
Devils's Dance 
Diagonalweg S 
Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 
Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 
Feenwald S 
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 
Geölter Blitz S 
Hexensex S 
Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 
Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 
Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 
Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 
Kurzer Zauber S 
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 
Master of Stone 
Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 
mihi Malte S 
Nordkante (North Arete) S 
Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 
Nordwestkante S 
Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 
Ostschlucht S 
Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 
Ostwand (East wall) S 
Phantom Lord 
Pipifax (Codswallop) S 
Rattenschwanz S 
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 
Sad Lisa 
Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 
Solohex S 
Teufelspakt 
Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 
Ulrikenpfeiler S 
Völlig Schwerlos S 
Waldenser 
Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 
Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 

Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Langer 1980
Page Views: 14
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Alter Hexentanz avoids the comforting bolts in fav...

Description 

Leading this is a little weird. Climb up the crack of Ostverschneidung and don't clip the bolt which is right in front of your face. Instead, stem and lean way out to the right to clip the sling on the right wall. Then, since this is only 5.7, don't climb the overhanging and somewhat blank rock to your right, but instead continue up Ostverschneidung until you can reach out and clip the second sling on your right. Now go onto the right face. Getting onto the face is the crux. This is followed by generally pleasant, though a little wandering, climbing. After you clip the last bolt, go to the right to avoid the climbing that is definitely not 5.7 between you and the anchor.

Location 

Begin under the obvious crack Ostverschneidung. Follow the slings.

Protection 

2 slings, 1 bolt + anchor


Comments on Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About