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Alpine Diversions 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, John Thackray, 1982
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Alpine Diversions start


1. Climb the thin crack up to a blocky overhang. Once past the overhang, belay at a large pine tree. 5.8.

2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.


About 150 feet or so right of the nose of the High Exposure Buttress. Go past the Third Trapps Chimney, then look for a large, right-facing flake about 15-20 feet high. This is the start of Obstacle Delusion. Alpine Diversions is 15 feet or so right of that. You should see a short, indistinct crack that is immediately left of a small chimney.


Standard 'Gunks rack

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By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Sep 14, 2017

There is a bee/hornet nest in the belay tree as of 9/10/17. They seem pretty civilized but be mindful.
Apr 15, 2010

For me, the move just off the ground is just beyond my reach .... and although I end up stemming off of the chimney later on, the first few moves up the crack do seem to clock in around 5.8 anyway. I agree that the first pitch as a whole seems contrived, between the chimney and the very little amount of climbing that's on it.

Beware of pine sap from the tree!
By doligo
Oct 4, 2010

The open book leading to the final roof looks pretty sweet, but the crack in the middle of it, is filled with dirt and grass and the next jug is pretty high up at least for me. So I went right, to the nose and skipped the open book and traversed back to the roof. In retrospect, I should have tried cleaning it with my nut tool - maybe someone reading this can do that, this will also create a good pro for the move I think...

P1 starting move sucks for shorties - I squeezed myself into the chimney on the right to avoid it.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 9, 2011

I lead P1 today and I am a total shorty. It took a few minutes, but, I finally figured out how to launch for the jug without using the chimney. P1 is meh, P2 is a lot more bang for the buck.
By SethG
Dec 5, 2011

The starting move is not height-dependent! Look to the left for a crucial sidepull...

Pretty good climb. The first move is pretty much the whole enchilada on pitch one. Pitch two's first overhang is a good challenge.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pitch 2 is very nice. Going straight up to finish through the roof rather than stepping right is slightly nicer. The climb is "G" except maybe for the bouldery start.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Mar 21, 2014

This climb is most effectively led with double ropes. It's easy to boulder up and place a small wire(tapered is nice) in the thin crack, then come down and chimney up to place a C3 a foot or two up and right for the other rope. Then you get to come down and chill out until you're ready to blast off. There is some run out on more moderate climbing toward the middle of the route and some dirty but fun jug and edge hauling up high. Good climb... deserves a more serious protection rating and more stars.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is so much better than it looks from the ground, and climbs so differently than you'd expect.
By Caz Drach
From: Sugarhouse, UT
May 26, 2015

The critical side pull is gone now. It has broken off...look for the gaston move into finger pocket

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