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Alpha Chino's Chinos 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 17, 2016

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Trying on Alpha Chino's Chinos.

Description 

One of the best 5.12s at The North Gym, this would be a 4-star classic if not for two no-hands stances that interrupt the continuity of the line. The rock is impeccable, cream stone littered with pockets and edges. The movement is excellent, with a dynamic, sequential crux passing a 2-finger pocket on the gently overhanging panel at mid-height.

Stick clip the first bolt, then lieback easily up jutting flakes to reach a big ledge. Incut, fist-deep pockets up a yellow and brown pillar lead to an intimidating leaning wall of perfect stone. Crank over this obstacle, fighting a building pump as the angle lessens. One last tricky bit leads over the final bulge to the anchor.

Location 

This lone route is located roughly equidistant between the Arcade and the Tropical Wall.

Protection 

7B to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.


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