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AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders)

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Death by Sloping (?) (+ 3 other routes on same boulder) 
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No Room for Jugs 
Nothing like a Mono - V6/7? 
Only Dihedrals Rule 
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Unsorted Routes:

AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,000'
Location: 45.6792, -122.06415 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,511
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Apr 16, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Hans on one of the best traverses in Washington!

Description 

As far as I know, there very few other boulder fields of this quality in the gorge area. The boulders are very clean, with minimal lichen and almost no loose rock. some of the landings definitely need some work, or a couple pads and a spotter. The boulders have a ton of friction, which can wear your fingers quickly if you're not careful. A lot of crimps, which can be pretty sharp. A wide variety of difficulty, from 20' Vb slabs, a 20' steep traverse, to a possible V10? roof route, as well as plenty of short crimpy routes. There are multiple big boulders, one of which is about 40' long, and 15' tall in spots with multiple lines and projects on it. So far there are about 10-15 lines developed, with room for at least 20+ more.
There are multiple good warms-ups, especially on the first big boulder you come to in the boulder field.
Boulders are on top of a hill in a clearing and get sunshine all day, so they dry out quickly. It can get windy though.

Getting There 

Take Kueffler road across from Beacon Rock, and drive up the road for about 15 min. It is 5.7 miles to the parking pull-off. Road will turn to gravel about a 1/3 of the way up. Continue to stay on the main road. about 3/4 of the way to the boulders you will pass the old road to Jimmy Cliff. eventually you will come to a small pulloff (marked in the maps link below). Only room for about 3 vehicles. From there the boulders are directly above you, about a 5 min walk. There is a trail that has been cut to the boulders, but it can be a bit hard to find. Look for cut branches and a faint trail. The boulders are quite obvious on satellite image maps, so your phone GPS can help out there. But if you go straight up the hill, you will come to the boulders.
Link to Bing Maps to parking pullout.

Climbing Season

For the Southwest Cascades area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders)
Rock Climbing Photo: Start above the roof, and then move left and up.

High Horse V1+ 5  Washington : Southwest Cascades : AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffl...
Starts at a two hand crimp above the middle of the roof, and a high foot on the left side of the roof. Crank up to another crimp, and then throw to a jug. Finish on V-easy moves to top out. Walk off left....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome view from the boulders.
Awesome view from the boulders.
Rock Climbing Photo: Micah Klesick on a great problem at Upper Kueffer.
Micah Klesick on a great problem at Upper Kueffer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse
Traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: decent sized boulder
decent sized boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Part of the boulder field
Part of the boulder field

Comments on AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Billcoe
Apr 19, 2014
Right on! Way to get it done man!
By Jesse Firestone
May 30, 2014
Checked these out yesterday. Not trying to disrespect anyone, but the expectations were set awfully high by the area description. While there are a couple decent lines, the rock is not like granite. I'd say it's on the lower to middle end of volcanic rock quality in the Gorge, very similar to the poorest rock at the Bridge. The rock quality at Hamilton down the hill is considerably higher. If you're gonna drive all the way up the hill, you should know what you're getting into.

The directions are solid, although there are lots of turns and pullouts not listed. Just stay on the main road, and check every pullout around 5.5-6 miles for a trailhead. There are mile markers painted on trees, but they list distance from where the road turns to gravel; ignore them. The boulders are definitely not visible from the parking. Took about 15 minutes of trail finding before a boulder was visible. Perhaps a 5 min walk once you know the way. Maybe I parked in the wrong spot?

Also, there are a number of private property signs on the way in. I don't know if access has been discussed with the land owners, but at the very least the signs are disconcerting.

I will say that the position of the area is stellar, with a great view of the Gorge and a nice view of Beacon just a bit further up the road.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 31, 2014
Thanks for commenting with your opinion so people can compare. My personal opinion is that best lines climb like some of the rough grained Leavenworth boulders I've been on. And having just got back from Jtree, several problems there reminded me of this area. These boulders are by far my favorite spot to boulder in the gorge, though I normally combine both Hamilton and the Kueffler boulders into one day when go out since the Kueffler area is no too large.
as far as access, its all timber company land, and open to public access for recreational use.
By Jesse Firestone
Jun 4, 2014
Cool Micah. Thanks for posting the directions for everyone to check it out. To be fair I had just gotten back from a trip and my standards were unfairly high. Next time I'll take a few days off before I visit any local spots :)
By LittleGuy
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 2, 2015
I tried to get to the Upper Kueffler Road today and maybe a mile after the Hamilton boulders it turned into a private road. Can you drive down that road or are there other ways to get there?

Thanks
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 2, 2015
Yes you can drive down the road. Despite the signs, it is a public access road.
By LittleGuy
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 11, 2015
Thanks!

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