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Alpenbock Route T 
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Alpenbock Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,539
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Sep 27, 2006

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Start in the corner underneath the Mass Wasting roof. The climbing gets really easy on the ramp, but protection opportunities are rare, so don't pass any up (there are belay chains here if you have a 50 meter rope and can't reach the bottom). Climb around the left (West) side of the Mass Wasting roof and pass a rusty pin. This is where the fun of the route begins. Wind your way up the steep section until you arrive under a small roof. A thin finger-tip crack traverses up and to the right around the roof, providing an exposed, crux finish. Good footwork and sequential hands are key to unlocking the crux. Believe it or not, there are good stances for pro here.


Between Ionic Bonding and Mass Wasting, start in the corner just left (West) of Red Light District. Walk off or rappel off of Ionic Bonding's chain anchors.


Standard rack and a helmet, small TCUs help at the crux. The Ruckman guide shows 3 pins, I only saw one, and it was super manky (and next to a bomber #1 camalot placement). Rope drag is a bear, even if you use long runners. No anchors at top.

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By dnaiscool
Apr 21, 2015

This is route is an adventure trad climb sandwiched in the book of Sport. If you've ticked all the rest, then grab that BCC rack (lots of thin nuts & TCU triples) and tick this little gem. It packs a lot of climbing in a rope stretching pitch.

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