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A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Comic Book Heros T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
Gutterball T 
High Wire T 
Into The Wild T 
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Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
U-Haul T 
Wailing Wall T 
World War Z T 
Zombie Woof T 

Aloof Roof 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Late Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 772
Submitted By: GWB on May 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This is the easiest of the three routes starting around the arete from Breaking Rocks. Start in the left facing corner below a roof between Stab in the Dark and Shit Hook. Pull up and out the short roof and continue up the crack eventually trending to the left aiming for the rap anchors at the top of Breaking Rocks.

Location 

20 feet left of Shit Hook

Protection 

Standard Rack


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By Noah.J
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pulling around the roof is fun, and significantly harder than Raise Hell, but easier than Super Direct. Small cams (purple/green/red C3s) sew up the upper section. Also make sure your second can climb the route before you head up. Rapping the route from the Breaking Rocks anchor to clean your gear may very well result in a stuck rope. Unless you're into making a jugging system out of runners and slogging up a 95' route to fix your idiot mistake, don't try to rap the route (ask me how I know...)
By Robert Hutchins
May 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Funny, I felt pulling around the roof was quite reasonable for the grade, so I guess it depends on climbing styles. However, I felt the boulder start was harder than any other move on either route. Pretty fun route if the rope is managed well, and nice to throw in on occasion for a change of pace. If the leader is fine on 5.8x, but not quite up to doing Stab In the Dark, this can also be used to access the beautiful arete on that climb. You probably would want to be a pretty solid 5.10 climber though as the consequences of falling in multiple locations are dire.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 20, 2017

Don't believe the Carolina Rocks guide book when it says the upper section is a slabby runout. It has good jugs, it has okay placements. It is fairly standard Moore's 5.6 terrain.

The roof pull was hard the first time (fell), and easy the second time. Very beta-dependent. I'd say getting into the dang corner under the roof is actually harder. Not as steep, but thinner and very shouldery. YMMV.
By Matt Westlake
Apr 18, 2017

I've found a tight fitting orange or red master cam is helpful under the roof and not much else inspires quite as much confidence. Provided you find the proper sequence and holds (high feet) the roof is pretty reasonable.

Plus one on Robert's comment about the arete, although I've found that with a keen eye it's entirely possible to protect the arete rather well except for maybe one spot. I did have to place pieces off to the side a bit to make this so - in particular there's a hidden yellow alien size on the left side and a grey alien way out right on the aloof roof face which I had to either runner long or suck up the drag. The arete is fun climbing if a bit subtle. With care I'd say it's probably about equal to the runout on the face.

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