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C. Third Triangle
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Allrete T 
Bloody Lady Di T,TR 
Joy of My World (is in Zion), The S 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Josh Pollock and Jake Waples, May 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Josh on Jun 2, 2016

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Jake Waples atop the first of the lower pitches. ...


This is the west-facing edge of the Third Triangle and the two below it. Together, they roughly form a single, long arete that you can see from the approach trail to the Lower Tiers (the upper pitch is the light-colored edge that sometimes catches the sun and stands out). The upper pitch is an easy, fun, airy 5.4 arete guarded by a large 5.8 overhang. The lower 1-2 pitches (5.4 at the most) are extremely dirty and lichenous and will likely rarely be done. Since the best approach to this route is to rap in, most people will opt to toprope the upper pitch only, but at least the lower pitches offer a chance to practice multi-pitch trad technique on easy terrain very close to home.

Rappel from the top anchor (bolts) in one long rap to a small tree low on the arete of the second triangle below (the Front Triangle). From there, rap another 65 or so feet to the rubble at the base of the lowest triangle.

The lower pitches are straightforward: stay on the low-angle arete, using abundant gear placements and giant holds. There is truly an epic amount of lichen down there - the rock is almost invisible under it sometimes - but at least the rock itself is generally not loose. Don't venture onto the west face - it will quickly become 3rd class but is also covered in rock debris. The lower pitches can be done as two separate pitches of 80-100 feet each or as one long lead. The climbing never exceeds 5.4 but has a few interesting spots, such as the short V-slots, one per pitch.

At the base of the upper pitch, you will be at the far right end of the sloping ledge at the base of the Third and Second Triangles. Joy of My World will be just to your left. Build a gear anchor here in the crack at the base of the overhang.

The overhang is protected with a bolt, which can be safely clipped from a solid stance below. The moves over the lip are fun and may involve a big pinch or a big flat hand slap.... Once on the arete above, protection is abundant. Stay as close to the arete edge as possible for maximum exposure and enjoyment, but the climbing here eases off to no more than 5.4. You get a fun position for the last few feet.

It would also be possible to bypass the overhang on the right side, but the rock is loose and protection is sparse until you are back on the arete itself (this would knock the pitch down to about 5.5 R). Besides, you'd be missing the most interesting part of the pitch....


It is on the arete at the right edge of the Third Triangle on the Upper Tier. The top anchors can be accessed from above by making a small exposed step around onto the ledge atop Joy of My World (you can clip the anchor before making the step around).


Gear to a #3 Camalot for the whole thing, or gear to a #2 Camalot for the upper pitch only. There is one bolt at the crux overhang - a locking biner may feel nice here, as it is your only pro above the anchor until you turn the overhang.

Photos of Allrete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake on the upper pitch, after turning the overhan...
Jake on the upper pitch, after turning the overhan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the second pitch at the easy part.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the second pitch at the easy part.

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By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 2, 2016

I'll go ahead and beat you to it, Jay: this one has a lot of lichen, like the other routes here.... ;)
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I only did the upper pitch which is not too lichen covered. The upper part felt easier than 5.5. I compare easy climbs and ratings to the last pitch of the Third Flatiron, although they are different styles of climbing.

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