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Alligator Soup S 
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Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
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Alligator Soup 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1 Leonard Coyne, Ed Russell, 9/77, P2 Ric and Cindy Gieman, 1991
Page Views: 7,240
Submitted By: Chamo Breslin on Jun 10, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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David Hall starting up the long run to the first b...

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  • Description 

    This quality route ascends the crisp, solid stone on the SE face of Kindergarten Rock by way of positive edges, fun reaches, and a crux, semi-thin sidepull.

    To find the start, hike up the climber's trail across the road from the Snake Pit, as per New Era. As you hoof it up, look at the cliff ahead of you and find the sloping ramp that angles up and left with a patch of green lichen on it, just left of New Era's obvious dihedral. Or, get to the base of New Era, admire the 1st steep line of bolts climber's left (Diesel to Dust, .11a), and take three steps further left to the 2nd line. This is your climb.

    Two starts are possible: gain the first hanger by using the ramp to traverse left and slightly up. This has positive hands but slim feet. Or, move straight up the thing layback, gain the ramp with your feet, and traverse left with good feet and ok hands to clip the second bolt - both work fine. From here, move up past two bolts to your well-protected crux. Once through, it's beautiful black and gold sandstone (limestone strata is rumored) with fun movement to the anchor. 7 or 8 quickdraws should do it.

    Stewart Green's guide lists the 2nd pitch as 5.11d with two technical roofs and good rock. He also lists an .11a variation to the 1st pitch by moving right at the third bolt to an old pin, then moving back to the original line.


    Only quickdraws needed; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch. Not sure what's on top of the 2nd?

    Photos of Alligator Soup Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 start.
    Pitch 1 start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carl Brockhoff high on Alligator Soup.
    Carl Brockhoff high on Alligator Soup.

    Comments on Alligator Soup Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 9, 2016
    By Chamo Breslin
    Jun 18, 2004

    Rookie mistake: pitch one is not rated 15.9. Should be p1, 5.9/p2, 5.11d. Sorry about that.
    By kevin jenkins
    Sep 4, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I had a blast on this route. I took a fairly in-experienced climber on this, and he was pushed and pumped. There is a bit of a runout on the first pitch (what G of G route doesn't?), so I wouldn't recommend this a a first lead, but with a little ingenuity and some spare webbing, you too can have a great day at the Garden. Climb safe, y'all.
    By Bill Parmenter
    Jan 1, 2005

    WARNING! As of today someone had removed the hangers from the anchors at the top of pitch two.
    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Jun 28, 2005

    Good stone over in this area - this route is no exception. Bad karma for whoever pilfered the hangers.... Probably best to replace them and return to karma neutral.
    By Stewart M. Green
    Sep 19, 2005

    Alligator Soup now has new anchors courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl. The two old coldshuts on 3/8" bolts are wearing through due to top-ropers not using draws on the anchors. Now they're safe!
    By Stich
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Mar 29, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Fun first pitch! If you use the anchors to rappel off of New Era, toprope it before you pull the rope.
    By mountainmicah83
    From: Colorado Springs
    Dec 13, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    You can reach Diesel and Dust Anchors without too much trouble from the Alligator Soup anchors if you are in to practicing Diesel on TR.
    By JShin
    From: Centennial, CO
    May 31, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    No need to do traverse to clip to the first bolt. It was relocated recently.
    By jmeizis
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jul 30, 2014

    The bolt line has been altered and a new bolt added. Not sure when or by who, but the person probably could of saved money by getting rid of the first, weird clip and getting people to stick clip the second. Guess it's sort of better.
    Rock Climbing Photo: New bolts on Alligator Soup.
    New bolts on Alligator Soup.
    By Jeff Hofheins 1
    From: Portland, OR
    Aug 31, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I climbed here yesterday, and I found the new bolt line to be very natural and just perfect. Loved this climb.
    By Matt M Jones
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Aug 9, 2016
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    The second pitch is really fun and very well-protected. You may want to extend your draws under the roofs to reduce rope drag.

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