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*The Main Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist, The T 
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 
Black and Tan T 
Broken Chain T 
Could Be Worse T 
Counter Curse T 
Dark and Stormy T 
Dark Arts T 
Darkest Hour T 
Death and Taxes T 
Fade To Black T 
False Prophet T 
Fierce Invalids T 
Fierce Invalids Extension T 
Foggy Notion T 
Gemini Dragonfire T 
Lakshmi Singh T 
Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Plasma Center S 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Alligator Sex Farm 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,174
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Mar 17, 2014

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Joel Unema preparing for the death roll on Twist F...


Alligator Sex Farm is a beautiful and difficult mixed addition to the amphitheater. Start on gorgeous alligator skin rock down low, climbing up fun cracks to some moderate ledgey territory about 40 feet up. From here continue up through technical vertical climbing protected by a few cams and nuts. Reach a stance at the base of the steep white spine, clip the first bolt, and launch up into wild stemming and feature climbing. Drop-knee, sidepull, crimp, and gaston your way past two more bolts up to the roof. Find your way through the roof, placing small gear from strenuous stances while making long moves between unique basalt holds. Once established above the roof, climb the poddy crack and traverse left across the pocketed face to clip the anchors.

Or you could just go to Florida and pony up the admission fee for an ASF.


Begin between Broken Chain and Could be worse, climbing black Alligator rock. Continue straight up to the bolted white spine. Finish by clipping the two-bolt anchor hanging from the roof to the right of the Logic Bomb anchor.


Gear to bolts, then back to gear.
Recommended gear list: 1 set small-medium nuts, single set of cams from BD 00 to #2 Camalot with an extra BD 0 or equivalent.

Photos of Alligator Sex Farm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The torque developed by rotation about the longitu...
The torque developed by rotation about the longitu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Body-rollin' Twist-feedin' Alligator Sex Farm dinn...
Body-rollin' Twist-feedin' Alligator Sex Farm dinn...

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