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Alligator Sex Farm 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Mar 17, 2014

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Joel Unema preparing for the death roll on Twist F...

Description 

Alligator Sex Farm is a mixed addition to the amphitheater. Start on alligator skin rock down low, climbing up fun cracks to some moderate ledgey territory about 40 feet up. From here continue up through technical vertical climbing protected by a few cams and nuts. Reach a stance at the base of the steep white spine, clip the first bolt, and launch up into wild stemming and feature climbing. Find your way through the roof, placing small gear from strenuous stances while making long moves between unique basalt holds. Once established above the roof, climb the poddy crack and traverse left across the pocketed face to clip the anchors.

Or you could just go to Florida and pony up the admission fee for an ASF.

Location 

Begin between Broken Chain and Could be worse, climbing black Alligator rock. Continue straight up to the bolted white spine. Finish by clipping the two-bolt anchor hanging from the roof to the right of the Logic Bomb anchor.

Protection 

Gear to bolts, then back to gear.
Recommended gear list: 1 set small-medium nuts, single set of cams from BD 00 to #2 Camalot with an extra BD 0 or equivalent.


Photos of Alligator Sex Farm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The torque developed by rotation about the longitu...
The torque developed by rotation about the longitu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Body-rollin' Twist-feedin' Alligator Sex Farm dinn...
Body-rollin' Twist-feedin' Alligator Sex Farm dinn...

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