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Alley Oop 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, and Stan Gross, 1956
Page Views: 4,161
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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BETA PHOTO: Alley Oop, P2.


P1 (5.7, 80 ft) Climb the thin face (crux) right of Dry Heaves to a small stance below a shallow, right-facing corner about half way between the ground the roof. There is good gear at the stance, but not much below it (Dick Williams' guide says that the FA party used a three-man shoulder stand at what we now call a "bouldery start"). Continue to the right-facing corner, and then work up and left to the roof just right of the blocky corner. Pull through the roof (great protection, big holds) and belay at a pair of bolts just above and left of the roof.

P2 (5.4, 100 ft) A pretty typical 2nd pitch for this part of the Trapps. From the bolts, climb up and right to the first of two left-facing corners. Follow the corners to the ledge above with a small tree. Easy, low-angle climbing on big holds.

To descend, carefully walk left around the corner to a large tree with rappel slings and rap rings on it. Rap down to the P1 belay bolts (angle right) with a single rope. A second rappel from the P1 bolts takes you back to the base of the climb.


Located approximately 12 minutes down the Carriage Road from the Uberfall area (about 2 or 3 minutes past Madame G, and about 8 minutes past the East Trapps Connector trail). Look for a large boulder beneath a low roof with a right-facing corner leading up to the left side. Alley Oop starts behind the boulder and right of the corner.


Standard rack. Small gear helps protect the initial moves. Two-bolt anchor at the top of P1, gear at the top of P2. Rap from a large tree left of P2.

Photos of Alley Oop Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alley Oop, P1.  It's not quite as convoluted as th...
BETA PHOTO: Alley Oop, P1. It's not quite as convoluted as th...
Rock Climbing Photo: the start
BETA PHOTO: the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Under the roof on P1.
Under the roof on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one of Alley Oop.
Pitch one of Alley Oop.

Comments on Alley Oop Add Comment
Show which comments
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it.
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Though I only led P1 (we then rapped off), I really liked this climb. Technically the hardest part was the start but it was certainly fun all the way up P1 with some nice steep exposure moving up to and through the roof.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 1, 2012

First pitch is fun and worth doing. Rings at top. Crux at ground much easier if you are taller. Second pitch if blah. Third pitch definitely not worth doing as the only descent option visible was a rusty bolt on an ancient cordelette on a small tree.
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Opening moves are thin and on the serious side of 5.7. The runout start is not long enough to rate R, but because of the blocky terrain below, it puts the leader in a no fall zone right away. If you miss a move, you will hurt yourself.
By Kurtz
May 10, 2015

When rapping P2, the chains at the top of P1 are quite far to the right! The ends of your 60m rope will just reach another rapp station on a pine tree growing out of the cliff. You can rapp again from this tree (traversing right) back the start.
By john2.71
From: Montclair, NJ
Aug 16, 2015

The P2 as described above (and drawn on the photo) is Sheep Thrills, not Alley Oop. According to Dick Williams, Sheep Thrills goes right to the blocky corner system, while Alley Oop goes up and *left* on 5.4, then a short P3 goes straight up at 5.6.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Apr 9, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

First pitch crux is right off the ground with no gear so be solid at the grade. Great way to set up Cheap Thrills on toprope.
By SethG
Apr 11, 2016

Yellow Alien as mentioned in the guidebook. Pocket seems too shallow but it locks in there like magic.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Aug 26, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Led this today, all the way to the top. There are no longer any rappel anchors on any trees, and based on the amount of lichen and plant debris as well and lush vegetation (grasses, bushes, trees..), the upper pitches are rarely climbed. From the ledge with the tree that probably once had a rap anchor, there is a faint trail to the right that leads through the bushes to more easy climbing.

If you do pitch 2 and beyond, realize that it involves bushwhacking through some vegetation and branches, and to get down you'll need to go all the way to the top and walk to another rappel line- or leave some gear at one of the trees. To get to the top feels more like two pitches, but you can make it most of the way in one long pitch, leaving just one short slabby scramble at the top, which you can probably do unroped.

The upper pitches are kinda fun, but messy and probably not worth the hassle. If you do them, bring lots of long runners, and maybe some webbing and a rap ring in case you change your mind halfway through..

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