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Cat Wall
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To Be Deleted (Unnamed 19) T 
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Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46 in 2nd edition of Bloom) T 
Unnamed 5.11 ( 36 in 2nd Addition) T 
Wild Cat T 
Unsorted Routes:

Alley Cat 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,669
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Apr 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Mike Holland sends Alley Cat in the last light of ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This excellent pitch is located well to the left of the alcove containing Johnny Cat, Mad Dog, etc. There was a plaque identifying the route at the base when I did it. I'm pretty sure that a single 60m rope will get you off.

The pitch starts out by pulling a bulge to a good rest. The crux difficulties begin afterward with a bulging, obtuse corner on very tight hands (tight #1's). The crack eventually widens to perfect hands through a couple roofs to a final big-hands roof. A wide slot guards the anchors, so you may want to haul that #4 camalot up for this bit.

The grade above is from the guidebook, but it felt more like mid-5.11 to me. I have pretty thin hands though.


Lots of #1 and #2 camalots. Some #.5 and #.75 camalots for the start and a couple #3's for the top. One could also place a #4 in the slot at the top.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 16, 2017
By Joe Collins
Apr 29, 2003

Actually, you will need two ropes for this one (maybe 1 70m rope).
By crackroach
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A 70 meter rope will not get you off of this one. Take two ropes. The webbing at the top could use some repair.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2004

By Scott N
Nov 2, 2004

If you have #2 friends or near identical sizes you'll have a little easier time than trying the green/red camalot boogy at the bottom. Kick ass route!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 4, 2007

A great pitch! Didn't seem 5.12 to me. Also, not as classic as King Cat, so I would detract one star from this route and give it to King Cat making Alley 3.5 stars and King Cat 4 stars.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2008

Great climb, a couple of #2 Friends are definitely useful. Also, this one gets a bit sandy, it needs some more traffic.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 14, 2008

Just repeated this route yesterday. I actually rapped off with a single 70 meter rope. When the end of the rope came into my belayer's grigri my feet were 4-feet off the ground. Easily downclimbed the rest. Not 5.12 but definitely not 11- either Mr. Anonymous Coward.
By chris Kalous
Nov 11, 2009

Climbed this on 11/7/2009 and while it had a tendency to get a little dirty without traffic in the past, it was absolutely covered in mud inside and out, top to bottom. Horrendous. Even the anchors had collected a layer of mud. I think something above must have shifted or changed above to dump mud down the wall. I doubt it will clean up any time soon. This route is OUT! No stars. RIP.
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 25, 2010

I was hoping it was sandier than the Arabian desert due to the recent rainstorm. Sad. This would otherwise be an incredible route.

Metal intensive: 1 yellow alien, 1 red alien, 2 BD .5s, 3 .75s, 6 #1s, 3 #2s, 2 #3s and 1 #4 for the top.

Sandiness notwithstanding, no move is harder than non-IC 10d, but this route is an endurofest. You're in spectacular shape if you can onsight. Tie a knot at the end. Without downclimbing you can ever-so-carefully get lowered down on a 70m (clip to a piece, undo knot, belayer's arm extension from the end, magic).

Bring a broom.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Just climbed this route and it was as clean as can be. I guess all the rain we've had this year cleaned it up. Great time to get on it.
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Nov 27, 2015

fa: steve hong? his signature hanger is on the anchor

80m would probably make it down
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Jan 16, 2017

80 meter rope gets you down nicely. 2 or 3 black metolius/#2 friend can be really handy.

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