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Allelopathy Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ben Folsom 7-4-2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 878
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jul 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Allelopathy Arete, with the next arete to the righ...


Climb the arete (mostly on the left side, or directly on it, using both sides) passing 9 bolts on the way to a two bolt/chain anchor. Good rock, with very technical climbing at the crux and sustained climbing throughout.


This is the nice, square arete, located in between "Gooseberry Corner" and "Opposable Thumbs Required".
Approximately 10 feet right of Gooseberry.



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By Patsy
Jul 11, 2011

Brutal, I got spanked on this one.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ben. Ben Ben Ben...
The start of this thing is hard enough to warrant the 11d rating. The arete section around the 4th (I think) bolt is just ridiculously burly. I tend to do well with technical climbing but I was reduced to wild flailing on that section. The crimps on the left are non-existent and the arete is just blunt enough to offer miserable pinches. The feet? There aren't any.
I'd recommend TRing the line from the shared anchor with the 10 to the right (Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright.before jumping on it on lead. Unless you routinely onsight 12s you'll have to climb it to retrieve your draws anyway...

Strong work sending that rig Ben, it belongs in the Sandbags Hall of Fame!
By Ben Folsom
Jul 6, 2012

I guess all I have to say is "grade creep is real". :)
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 6, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Agh! Grade creep yourself.
Guess I'll update my rating to 5.9+, people shouldn't be surprised if they get their asses handed to them.
By Ben Folsom
Jul 7, 2012

I'm only kidding... I just didn't know what to grade it after doing it. I know the moves around the 4th or 5th bolt are pretty blank, and I remember that the feet disappear for a move or two there.

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