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Allamuchy State Park

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Allamuchy State Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.9199, -74.7493 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joseph D'Agostino on Mar 2, 2009
This Afternoon

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Allamuchy Mountain, NJ


Crystalline granite cliffs in Sussex County, 10 minutes from I-80. Contains excellent slab, crack and face climbing, with 45 routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.11d.

Approximately 1 hour from most of Northern New Jersey and New York City, a great location for a relaxful day of toproping and short leads.

Hidden off the road, Allamuchy is nice and shady on a hot summer day. EMS Climbing School as well as other services uses the main wall on weekends during the summer. The instructors are friendly, but there are some shorter gems left of the main wall in the woods.

Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Long slings or static rope may be useful for top ropes.

Guidebook: Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A. Sloane. All route descriptions taken from here. Don't be cheap, buy the book. Topos are great and include good photos, and lots of bouldering areas in the Northern NJ area as well as Central Park in NYC.

Getting There 

From Interstate 80, take exit 25 Stanhope/Newton. Follow 206 North to the second light, turn left on county 604. Drive 1.7 miles, park across from wooden fence in one of 2 parking areas on right. Hike up trail into the woods, cliffs are less then 5 minutes from the road. (Be sure to fill out the Park climbing waivers at the trail-head leading to the main cliff.)

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

51 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Allamuchy State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Allamuchy State Park:
5.7 (Main Wall, Right)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Main Wall and Right Wall
Hourglass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 60'   Main Wall and Right Wall
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 60'   Main Wall and Right Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Allamuchy State Park

Featured Route For Allamuchy State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Joey on 'No Midgets' 5.9+

5.9+ 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  New Jersey : Allamuchy State Park : Practice Wall
Climb through the overhang directly behind the right hand tree and continue straight to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Jersey

Photos of Allamuchy State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Tic Tac Toe Wall, left facing crack v...
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Tic Tac Toe Wall, left facing crack v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing left crack of Tic Tac Toe Wall
Climbing left crack of Tic Tac Toe Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Colin on the approach to the 'Main Wall' this past...
Colin on the approach to the 'Main Wall' this past...

Comments on Allamuchy State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Jun 9, 2009
This past weekend (June '09) I noticed a lot of the trees that people sling webbing around for top-roping are rotted pretty bad so bring a small rack and anchor up higher in some vertical cracks directly above 'A Year in the Life' or further down above 'Hourglass' in a 45 degree crack (lay on slab for gear placements).
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 7, 2010
i still don't get why all you guides that make money bringing clients here don't throw in a few bucks and install fixed bolted anchors. destroying those trees is the sort of thing that land managers site when they close down access and many folks climbing here are top ropers that own a rope, a few biners, and a bunch of slings so gear anchors are simply not going to happen...

p.s. i'd do it myself but i moved... allamuchy's special: y'all should put some work into preserving it...
By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Oct 25, 2010
Jon, the park system removed some bolts from there years ago. Bolting is dangerous in a place like that for liability purposes. No matter who installs them the park is responsible. I've been top-roping off of some of the same trees for years and they have yet to show any type of damage. One of our assistant guides is a Dendrologist and he's looked at some of those trees and says the same thing, no damage. Thanks for the input, I do agree though bolts shoud be placed on some walls.
By Dave Pfurr
Sep 23, 2011
Bolting is a touchy subject in NJ--the land of over-regulation. Anyone visiting Allamuchy will find some bolts that were placed there way back when. But NJ Parks forbid the installation of fixed anchors. (Obviously not a problem in PA.) Some folks did install a two-bolt anchor at Allamuchy a few years ago. It lasted a week or two and was most-likely chopped by other climbers with an anti-bolting agenda. If you travel around you will find many other states that provide fixed anchors for the climbing community--but NJ can't pull it off.
By Kyle Glenn
Aug 18, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Fallen spike
Fallen spike

Sad news over at the main wall where the iconic spike has fallen from the right most corner climb. Made the start a bit harder and definitely not as fun. Does anyone know how or when this happened?
By Jon Sullivan
Jun 21, 2016
Hi - planning on visiting my family up here over the summer. Having grown up in the area, I remember adjacent to 206 between North Shore Trail and White Hall road there were some faces. Has anyone done these on TR or trad?

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