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Botany Bay a.k.a "The Stadium"
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All Strikes. No Balls. S 
Around The Horn S 
Babe Ruthless S 
Chin Music S 
Crank Aaron S 
Cy Hung S 
Grand Jam S 
Jose Conflako S 
Mayday Malone S 
Mickey Mantle S 
Pete Throws S 
Pinch Hitter S 
Reggie Crackson S 
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Slider S 
Tug Madraw S 

All Strikes. No Balls. 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Year Round Climbing. Morning sun till 2 pm in winter.
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: BBQ on Jan 22, 2017

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The relief at the end of pitch 1. Around The Horn ...

Full Value Description 

Yet another worthy five twelve something climb that every five twelve climber should get on. Shares the same five elevenie first pitch with Around The Horn. As you will recall, most of us experience the first stopper crux of this route at a left leaning tugger/mugger move at the fourth bolt that robs you of good feet when you are terribly pumped. Expect the same deal to go down here. Another pumpy crux awaits after a brief/thin rest that involves using a full value five eleven plus crimper to good feet if ya get em' up just right. Clip at your waist and struggle to manage the pump right up until the very end of the first pitch. Stand on huge feet next to the first set of anchors. This is the best rest on the climb. Be sure to get it all back, take twenty minutes to rest if you need to, now comes the rest of the climb.

And of course, those that wish to commit to All Strikes. No Balls. will inevitably have to commit the the adventurous beginning of pitch two. Enjoy five seven slabbery with a Needles-Style run out. Admit it, many of you have wanted to see someone blow the clip and fall after completing what has been called, "The Second Inning Stretch". It would more than likely be impossible. But it would be hella fun to watch.

Anyway, back to the ball game. After the run out adventure pitch, clip two more bolts in the black belly with longer draws and get ready to run like you are stealing home plate. A slightly different use of the exact same rail that one grabs to do the amazing crux moves of Around The Horn's second pitch puts you onto orange/blonde rock and has you motoring left, left, left. Reach far out left, catch a baseball sized hold with a sharp pyramid top and be sure to match it. It is probably better to be in a position where you make the clip at your right hip after completing a toe roll transition from a left foot heel hook. Keep traversing left on good holds and enjoy the first groin-destroying stem to a drop knee to a knee bar to a jug. Clip a long black chain. Deal with some strange moves that lead to a better pinch -to a deep three finger side pull- that will allow you to get to your feet and cheer.

Stand up on big, slanty slab feet and get ready to sprint across home plate. The final ten feet is very reminiscent of the second stopper pump crux on the first pitch. At this point, ya just gotta go for it, do a drop knee and stem just right and climb outta there on small, good holds to jugs at the open shunt anchor. Clipping a chain to the left of this second anchor allows the climber to continue the adventure through two steep roofs at a climbing grade of very upper five twelve plus to possibly thirteen aye-O.K. holds that end on the anchors of Ty Knob.

Climbs that are variations/extensions of existing classics usually don't win much praise from the fans who crave the nose-bleed seats. However, this climb is well worth your time and is just as classic as any climb in the area. For the grade its is a fun as heck/pumpy huck fest that will have you working so hard that you will not have any extra time to even think about downgrading it. While it might not have a "stopper crux move", like the infamous finger-lock on Pinch Hitter, this climb more than makes up for it with The Stadium-style exposure factor. Steepness, exhilarating climbing and dozens of hard on the go cruxy moves makes this route a full value experience rather than another lap to kill time. The only downside will be its popularity with emerging five twelve weekend warriors that will surely cause long lines to buy a ticket to get into the ball park.

CliffsNotes Description  

Locate Around The Horn. 4th bolt line from the right hand-most side of the Botany Bay area known as The Dugout. Climb the 11c first pitch of Around the horn. Use a longer draw on the 5th bolt. Climb past first anchor. Enjoy the run out! You will arrive a steep, black belly and you will find two bolts easily. Clip the first bolt with carabiners on a shoulder length sling. Clip the next bolt with an extended draw or a runner just a bit shorter than the thing that you clipped to the bolt below you. Breath! Rest! Imagine the move! Traverse left when you hit the long rail that you more than likely will grab, with your left hand. Best to clip next bolt at your right hip. Head left again, climb up to a long black chain. Ends on cold shuts.

Protection 

Expect about 14 bolts with the final moves to the open cold shut anchors being protected by a permadraw. Use an extended draw on the 5th bolt of the first pitch. A shoulder length sling with carabiners appropriately protects the first bolt on the second pitch (right after the run out section) and reduces rope drag substantially. Using longer draws on the next three bolts of the second pitch reduces rope drag associated with the traversy climbing.


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Comments on All Strikes. No Balls. Add Comment
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By t.schwartz
Jan 25, 2017

Now thats a route description!

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