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All my Friends are Aliens T 
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Blue Ribbon variation T 
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Flee Fly Flue T 
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Hips and Valleys T 
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Lawn Rake, The T 
MW crack T,TR 
PBR T 
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Robin's Ramp T 
Seams Alright T 
Seamstress (access route) T 
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Waiting for the Sun S 
Wild Boar S 

All my Friends are Aliens 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: geoff georges on Aug 5, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: All my Friends are Aliens

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I started cleaning this route in a driving blizzard late winter 2014 and it took some excavating to clear loose flakes.

Start in shallow left facing corner/seam, the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall, some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree. Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.

Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.

Location 

Currently the furthest route left on the main wall. There is a slab with an off width crack on the left, and this goes up the seam on the right.

Protection 

standard rack to 2". extra in finger sizes.Brass nuts could be used in lower seam. Green Alien or the exact size protects the starting crux move. Brass nuts above this move, or blue Alien. Extra finger size Aliens for many discontinuous cracks on upper half Bolted anchor with rap chains at top.


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Rock Climbing Photo: All my friends are aliens, crux move beta
BETA PHOTO: All my friends are aliens, crux move beta

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By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is sweet! So many cool juggy flake system switches and moves over bulges. I did a lot of cleaning on lead (everything you need is clean) but the pitch is still scruffy, bring a brush and give back!

The first move is a little spooky. A black totem seemed to fit pretty well (I don't have a green alien). Brassies are useful after the hard first move. You'll want plenty of small nuts and cams for the rest of the pitch as well.

So that you don't end up off route like me: From the tree on the route go left and then right around a bush. Head left along a juggy flake system on a slabby ramp until you can pull a reachy move over a bulge using another cool protruding flake. Anchors are at the dead tree above and to the right. Don't go too far left on the ramp, it goes nowhere! Once you pull the starting moves the rest of the route is full of hidden jugs and is probably 5.8+. Super fun!

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