Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Brian Shelton and Chris Jackson |
Page Views: | 1,115 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Manitou on Feb 16, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Stewart M. Green: as of the July Fourth weekend, Red Rock Canyon Open Space has been reopened for climbing.
Red Rock Canyon Open Space is currently CLOSED to all access due to flood damage.
Red Rock Canyon Open Space is currently CLOSED to all access due to flood damage.
Description
This climb is located more or less above the top-rope wall, to the south of the Chief and Squaw Wall.
Go past two bolts up a steep face (listed as 5.9, but this felt considerably harder, easily 5.10+ for short people), continue into an easy crack system, this is followed by another bolt and tricky face climbing into a right-facing dihedral to the anchors.
This thing is straight out of The Garden in terms of style. It is quite scary getting to the first bolt; 40 feet from the belay ledge, culminating in a tricky mantle onto a crumbling, hollow shelf before the first bolt can be clipped. A fall here would be brutal, tumbling all the way back to or past the belay ledge, hence the R rating. The crack system is covered in rat shit. The last moves to the anchor are tricky as well, and not all that easy to protect.
All in all, this is a fun climb; it is out of character for the canyon. It has good exposure. It doesn't see much traffic.
Go past two bolts up a steep face (listed as 5.9, but this felt considerably harder, easily 5.10+ for short people), continue into an easy crack system, this is followed by another bolt and tricky face climbing into a right-facing dihedral to the anchors.
This thing is straight out of The Garden in terms of style. It is quite scary getting to the first bolt; 40 feet from the belay ledge, culminating in a tricky mantle onto a crumbling, hollow shelf before the first bolt can be clipped. A fall here would be brutal, tumbling all the way back to or past the belay ledge, hence the R rating. The crack system is covered in rat shit. The last moves to the anchor are tricky as well, and not all that easy to protect.
All in all, this is a fun climb; it is out of character for the canyon. It has good exposure. It doesn't see much traffic.
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