Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
2. South End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 
Half Blind and Fully Baked T 
Subtle like Bob Ross T 
Whine and Lickher S 

All Dogs Go to Heaven 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Matt and Kathy Barker - 2015
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Ron Birk on Aug 1, 2016  with updates from abeach

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: All Dogs Go to Heaven

Description 

A fun bolted climb with featured rock on the first half. Shares the anchor with the other two routes in the area.

This is the first pitch to a 4 pitch line but as of now the upper pitches are loose, dirty, and have very poor anchors. The first pitch is good to go!

Note: 70m rope is needed. Tie a knot at the end and lower/belay from way up left.

Location 

The right-most route of the three on this section.

It begins about 30 +/- feet down and right of the start of "Whine" & "Half Blind". Hiking up from the car to this section of cliff, it's the first climb you come to.

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on All Dogs Go to Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We TR'd this after leading "Half Blind" but with the belayer still on the "Whine / Half Blind" base ledge. The climber scrambled over on the slab 25 ft and was then lowered to the ground on this climb. We used a 70m that has been measured as exactly 70m recently. (i.e. not 'cut long') However, I THINK that with this 70m rope we could not have top roped this with both the belayer and the climber on the ground at the base of "All Dogs".

Rating - maybe "5.6+" for the last few moves to the anchor.

What's the single bolt 20 feet right of the top-most bolt? It seems to just be there. A directional bolt for another climb not listed yet?
By slacker
From: North Conway NH
Aug 10, 2016

This route actually goes to the top of the cliff. The last couple of pitches are very run out and adventurous. It ends on a lone bolt (with a quick link) above the crux overlap. It was done just for the adventure and to burn off steam..
By Ben Townsend
Sep 29, 2016

This might be my favorite of the routes on the South End. Seemed easy for the grade, maybe even easier than Subtle Like Bob Ross. I took small cams and was happy I did, especially near the top.