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All Chalk And No Action 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ruckman
Page Views: 9,322
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Peter finishing up the route.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Awewsome route!!! It is located just to the left of where touch up and Gordon's Hangover starts. Some people start in the actual corner of Gordons and others start on the face. I did it starting on the face and thought it is much more classic that way. The Landing is good if you blow before the first bolt and the moves are really cool. After the third bolt is clipped it eases up a lot, although it still can be pumpy(or it least it was for me), at the top. For only a 60ft route it gets some good exposure. All in all well worth the hike! Good luck!


5 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. (Same as Touch Up.)

Photos of All Chalk And No Action Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter on All Chalk and No Action
Peter on All Chalk and No Action
Rock Climbing Photo: All Chalk
All Chalk
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Hendy RP
Seth Hendy RP
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Hendy finally sending!
Seth Hendy finally sending!
Rock Climbing Photo: All chalk
All chalk
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: last move to the third bolt, after that it is all ...
last move to the third bolt, after that it is all ...
Rock Climbing Photo: pulling the cruxy start
pulling the cruxy start

Comments on All Chalk And No Action Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2015
Jan 8, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz
By sgreen Verde
From: salt lake city, ut
Jun 6, 2007

pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 27, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d!
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

Beautiful line! Well worth the hike up.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 19, 2009

My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful does not get much better.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2009

It gets a lot better.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of (bad) holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches.
Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away!
By Spencer Daniels
Jul 5, 2012

I have been spotting this route out this season. Looks like a great route!
By Ryan Arnold
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

While on it today, I noticed the hanger was almost pulled off the second bolt. I tightened the screw back down with my fingers, but it didn't give me much confidence... especially since the crux is at and just above that bolt.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 8, 2014

Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 30, 2015

I find this incredibly stiff for 12a, though I prefer the steep and juggy over the thin and technical. But compared to the other popular 12a sport route in LCc "cool your Jets" this feels like 12c. One day I'll send it...

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