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All Along the Watchtower T 
Clevenger Route T 
Ordinary Route T 

All Along the Watchtower 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Schmauss, Ives, Strassman
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Aug 26, 2015

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The initial fun crack and stemming moves of the cl...

Description 

Sandbag! 10a in Lewis Guide felt much harder to me. Overall a very nice route. Although the climbing was cool on P2, it was kinda scary with poor rock and not much pro after the piton(Lewis guide says pitons but there is only one), I would climb P2 of the Clevenger Route instead if I did it again.

P1**-10b Start up theClevenger Route(may want a #4 C4) until you can traverse right above a bush into a nice crack. Higher where the crack thins is the crux and I was happy to have small stoppers and a few RPs here. You are not that far above a ledge when pulling the crux and the small gear allowed me to sew it up. A Bit higher is a questionable bolt that protects the final fun face moves before the angle eases. I made a belay by digging out a solid crack below a bigish ledge.

P2(3 star climbing on 0 star rock and poor pro)-10c R/X if you fall on easier but loose ground at the top half of the route
From the P1 belay I was barely able to spot the pin up and left that protects the crux of P2. I climbed a good crack left of the pin and got a good piece of gear with a long sling. From there move left over sketchy rock, a bit tricky, to a pin. I also put in a couple of pieces between the pin and the first piece in fairly poor rock. Just after the pin I was able to back it up with a red C3 but was never able to get a great look at it but it seemed ok. Continue left and up into a scoop and below a fragile looking roof. Avoid the roof on the left and pick your way to the top on crumbly unprotected rock for another 40'. I was able to find an ok easy way to the top by moving way left to a crack that led back up and right.

P3*** Move the belay right to a small alcove and climb steep fun rock around an annoying bush and into a wide crack. Follow the crack to it's end then climb easier and fun knobs, runout, to a questionable bolt(bomber pink tricam to back up the bolt. Easy to the top. I did get in one RP 15' below the bolt.

Location 

The route starts up a right facing corner, the Clevenger Route, located 30 or so feet right of the obvious small pine on the East face.

Protection 

Cams to a #4, may want a double set(I had doubles with my tricams), extra stoppers and RPs, lots of runners.


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