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Hidden Heavenly Slab
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All About Volume 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Phillips, C. Martin, L. Douglas, B. Sadowsky - 2012/13
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Boissal on Jul 2, 2017

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Clay coming up pitch 3

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yet another great vision from prolific choss muncher TP, this 3-pitcher takes you for a wild ride up the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab, mixing ridiculously steep juggy moves with delicate slab work.

Pitch 1 - Straight to business: after a couple of moves and the first clip, tackle a steep bulge on black rock using bad smears and not-so-great sidepulls. Make a touchy second clip and establish on a small shelf. From there, follow a short crack and cruise up the water streak toward the diagonal roof band, clipping bolts and using the occasional piece of gear. Diagonal along the lip until you can surmount the roof, cross a major choss garden, and follow zig-zagging ramps (left then right) to a 2-bolt belay. A stout warm up, feels more like techy LCC 10+.
7 bolts (ish) + small/med gear.

Pitch 2 - Scamper up the gully to your right for a couple moves before establishing on the slab and follow a wandering line of bolts toward a steep section (some runners helpful). Once things tilt back a bit, follow a right-trending line of decent edges culminating in a wild and very-gym like set of moves to establish on a shelf below the lip of the roof. Pull this and traverse left to a set of anchors below a much bigger and steeper overhang.
8 bolts (ish) + optional small stuff?

Pitch 3 - Take a deep breath and traverse left on the ledge to get below a steep dihedral feature. Stem, yard on creaky jugs, clip a bolt, place a couple small pieces, and eventually roll over the lip of the White Lines-like overhang (in steepness, not grade). Stroll up the slab above, clipping spaced out bolts on immaculate rock.
6 or 7 bolts, small to medium gear (up to #1).

Pitch 4 - Undone, a bigger version of the previous overhangs. Get after it!

Location 

The route starts a couple hundred feet up canyon from the 7th way. Look for a right trending narrow ramp at the base and a right trending roof band about 50' up. Several black water marks streak the face, the first bolt sits in one of them, it's painted light orange.

Protection 

8-ish draws and a few runners. Gear to a #2 (never found a hand-sized placement but there must be one somewhere).
A #3 secures the belayer before the 1st clip is made.
Bolted anchors, rap the route, looks like a 60m would work but I only used a 70m.


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By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
6 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CONDITION REPORT 
Super fun route! Single set wires to a #2 Camalot is plenty. Mostly bolts. Long draws are nice on the second pitch to straighten out the rope. Take a 70m rope for safety on the raps - I think a 60m would be too close for comfort.

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