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Daff Dome, South Flank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14 Karat S 
Alimony Cracks T 
Alimony Cracks, right T 
Fingertips S 
Great Circle, The T 
Guide Cracks 1 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 2 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 4 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 3 T 
Hogwash S 
Liberation T 
Prespiration T 

Alimony Cracks, right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 126
Submitted By: kendallt on Jul 30, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Wider right crack

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun route, great for a first "wide" lead. Climb the rightmost, wide, alimony crack.

Don't be intimidated by the appearance of the start, it's not as burly as it looks and it's more fun than the crack on the left. The first wide pod goes without any real offwidth moves.

Higher you will find opportunity for some true offwidth moves, though my partner managed to climb it with only a cowboy arete move and some shoulder jamming...

Save at least half your wide gear for the top. I found the Crux to be the wide section at the top, while my (shorter) partner found exiting the lower wide pod to be the crux.

Protection 

Doubles 1" to 4"
An optional 5" and/or 6" piece should stitch it up if you don't want to run out at the top.

Two rappels from the bolts at the top will get you down.


Comments on Alimony Cracks, right Add Comment
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By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 2, 2017

I didn't find much necessary offwidth on this route and it is way soft compared to the two 5.8 offwidths in the Valley I climbed the same week. Still good fun!

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