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Alien Pod 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Jaren Watson on Jul 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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in the pod


Short and sweet. Interesting feature with great sidepulls. Big holds the whole way. Gets steeper as you go up.


Farthest route on the right.


4 bolts to sport anchors.

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By Nielsonru Nielson
Jul 26, 2012

Great lead! Nice and short. I would say 5.8 for sake of the last movement to the anchors. Kind of a pain to clean for beginners.
By Derrick Hales
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It is tricky for those beginners, but once you know the sequence its easily no harder than a 5.7. you can bust a sweet knee bar to clip the chains or take a rest.
super cool view from this route.
By Jaren Watson
From: Boise, Idaho
Jun 6, 2013

I agree with Derrick. Enormous holds with easy movement and plenty of rest. 5.7. I could see the argument for 5.6. Sure, it's a little bit steep, but the grade should reflect both how difficult it is to onsight, the difficulty of the movement, and the size and kind of holds. In these respects, Alien Pod is a nice easy climb. Cleaning certainly impacts the experience but has no relation to the grade.
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Apr 4, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I don't think weirdness adds difficulty. 5.7 offwidth can feel like 5.10 until you learn how to climb OW.. I think the same applies to alien nesting sites.
By Chris Rix
From: Irwin, ID
Apr 26, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'm the beginner these other guys are referencing... That being said I didn't think it was to bad to clean up this route. The last move to get into a spot where I could hook into the anchors kicked my butt, I had to mess with it for a few minutes before I figured out how to brace my leg in one of those big pockets toward the top. I thought it was a fun route.
By Kyleblack
Jun 13, 2016

Agree with 5.7. Little bit of an overhang which could be a challenge for some 5.7 climbers, but the holds are solid. Watch out for snakes, I came face to face with a rattlesnake at the top.
By waltpacker Packer
From: Logan, UT
Jun 6, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very weird for a 5.7(I would say it's a solid 5.8). The route is overhung, and I don't know any other climb rated 5.7 that is overhung. Not a 5.7 lead for sure. Fun, but weird, short.
By Jaren Watson
From: Boise, Idaho
Jun 6, 2017

Waltpacker, I'm a fan of consensus building by the community to determine a route's grade, but we ought to form our opinions based on reasonable standards. One of which is that steepness can affect difficulty but is definitely not the only factor. No overhung 5.7s? Just because you don't know of any doesn't mean they don't exist. I'm sure climbers up and down the east coast would smile at this assertion and supply a list of dozens upon dozens of 5.5 and 5.6 climbs significantly steeper than Alien Pod. Closer to home, Mystery Achievement at the City has an overhung finish and the hundreds of ticks that route's received call it 5.7. Every aspect of that route is more difficult than Alien Pod, though not by much.
I agree this route's features are weird/unique, but that doesn't translate into difficult climbing in this case. The holds are huge! I mean monumentally huge. I can't think of a single 5.7 I've climbed anywhere that's easier than this route.
I totally respect your opinion, but I resist a definitive statement like "not a 5.7 lead for sure."
At any rate, l hope you enjoyed climbing at Pointless. Cheers.

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