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Alice in Wonderjam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Shockley, Pete Wilkening and Jim Wilson, December 1974
Page Views: 2,647
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Tony Moser leading Alice in Wonderjam


This climb is found on a south-facing formation several hundred yards uphill from the Comic Book formation. From the base of that formation scramble up the rocky hillside past numerous giant boulders to reach this nice crack.

Climb the obvious straight-in crack which widens from fingers to fists. Descend by walking off to the climber's right.

A good climb but be aware that is has a bit of an approach; it's not very far up to the base but it is an arduous affair that is perhaps more worthwhile if the other routes in the area are done.


Gear to 3.5"

Photos of Alice in Wonderjam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Pritchett leading Alice in Wonderjam
Lisa Pritchett leading Alice in Wonderjam
Rock Climbing Photo: An up close view of the cliff to look for.  White ...
An up close view of the cliff to look for. White ...

Comments on Alice in Wonderjam Add Comment
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By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 12, 2003

Worth the hike.
By Murf
Dec 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Always wanted to do this ( one of those not so "lost classics" ), but was deterred by the approach. Turned out to be a pain, but not that bad. I think my grade-o-meter is getting out of whack, 'cause this puppy seemed harder than 5.9 to me. Was sucker into descending more towards Box Canyon, which was a mini-canyoneering adventure (many dropped packs and slippery chimneys ).
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 24, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A ridiculously devious approach. Once we descended the correct "Rabbit Hole" we were, however, rewarded with a sweet crack route. The climb starts with technical thin stuff and widens to an off-width at the top.

The descent I used seemed to be about 5.1 downclimbing or so.
By Jeremy Werlin
Dec 12, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very stiff at the grade, IMO. Bringing a #4 camalot for the top wide bit is a good idea. Belay at the first ledge when you top out. Approach is an adventure, but not crazy. Very cool little grotto.
By Tradiban
Dec 20, 2013

Solid 3 stars, gets harder the higher you get, bring the C4 #4.

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