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Hall Of Truth Corridor
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Alibi 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Strege, 2005
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Mark Orsag on Jun 6, 2016

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Alibi-5.9+. The steep opening face. Photographing ...

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Description 

Longer steep route on the south wall of the Lower Hall. Shares an anchor with No Lawyers Allowed 5.8; the route to the left of Alibi. Alibi starts out slightly overhanging on larger holds, which makes it somewhat unusual for the Needles. Though the rock here isn't sandstone, Alibi has that sort of feel to it. On the bottom part, I felt like I was climbing at HCR not Rushmore. Crux move is a committing high step off a little "rest ledge" with sloper holds for the hands. The climbing on the lower section is really good-- powerful and flowing, but once the angle lessons, the climbing quality also deteriorates. The top offers a choice between an oddly tilted slab/arête and a tight chimney. Quite contrived and a bit confusing. Most climbers will probably start to the right, in the chimney, and then cross over to the slab- but it could work the other way as well. You could also stay left or right nearly the whole way, but you would have to leave the right hand chimney (not pleasant anyway) to tackle the final awkward bulge that guards the anchors (which is easier if you go , you guessed it, back right!). Think that I remember that bulge being a little on the spicey side (could have used another bolt maybe), though this is a well-protected route by Rushmore standards on the whole. This is one of those routes that "could have been a contender" for classic status but doesn't add up to that level in the end. Still easily worth doing.

Location 

South wall of the Lower hall. Anchors at the top.

Protection 

7 bolts.


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