|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Rob Mullen on Jul 13, 2002|
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|Comments on Alexander's Chimney||Add Comment|
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By Christa Cline
Aug 9, 2004
|Alexander's Chimney is a very viable descent option for the routes on the Lower East Wall as there are several rap stations. You'll need two 60 m ropes for below described descent.Find the first rap just 30 feet below Broadway on top of Alexander's Chimney. Scramble down to a ledge and look up to your right (East) to find the somewhat hidden slings on a piton and a nut above you. Rap down past the first obvious set of slings and go to the second set of slings wrapped around a boulder/chockstone, approx. 190 ft. From here on it gets really wet: rap straight down the chimney another 190 ft to a set of slings on two stoppers and an ancient 4-inch T-nut in the wall on the right side (West) about 20 feet before the obvious chimney ends. The final rap of another 160 ft gets you back down to the base of the Lower East Wall on the approach ledges about a hundred (or more) feet above the Lamb's Slide. My partner added carabiners to rap station 2 & 3 and a sling and stopper to station 3. We rapped off this route twice in a day (8/8/04) and had no problem with the ropes getting stuck, though there is a potential of that happening on the first rap. Expect your ropes to get soaked, and there is definitely potential for your rope pulls to knock rocks off which will pin-ball down the chimney. I'd do this descent any time again as opposed to the Lamb Slide or any of the other lengthy alternatives...... We saw several rock falls on Lamb's, one VW bug size rock tumbled down just as we would have been on it had we chosen to go that way. Not an option for me with the Chimney being so easy and quick (40 minutes).|
By phil Sabet
Mar 30, 2008
|This is a great ice climb with quality mixed moves when it's in. This should be on every alpinist's tic list.|
Aug 17, 2010
|Can this be rapped with a single 70m?|
Aug 15, 2016
This is an odd route. Very historical, an excellent line on a beautiful and popular face - and yet uncommonly done. Why? I had soloed it onsite a couple decades ago, could hardly remember it, so went up to re-aquaint myself, this time with a partner and gear. A good addition.
The Chimney is low angle with large holds, but the holds are either flowing with cold water or covered in ice. What would be an enjoyable scramble is instead sketchy or aggravating. After that, it's a romp - in the sun, warm dry rock, great position. The route description is very good - if you do the big 4th class traverse right, climb up about 50' with some moderate 5th class moves, then do another big 4th class traverse left into the bowl, an easy 50' up to Broadway is all that remains.
Route correction pitch 3: there are 3 obvious dihedrals, but they all face right, not left (because of that, we went to the end of the ramp to make sure; the 3rd dihedral climbed fine).
Route suggestion: instead of finishing with Keiner's, do the first part of that which is nice, then when it turns to 3rd class gravel and diagonals up right, go straight up and finish with Stepladder; this way is more straightforward and quite consistent 4th class all on clean rock.