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Alex Honnold's relationship angst fuels free solo of Rainbow Wall, excerpt from his new book
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Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
This excerpt from the chapter "Fear and Loving in Las Vegas" is posted on his sponsor's blog Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 3, 2015
Thanks, Matt. That was a good read. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Nov 3, 2015
WTF??
Clicked on your link and get an advertisment for health insurance or something
cragmantoo
Joined Mar 5, 2015
170 points
Nov 3, 2015
Thanks for sharing this Matt. A nice read indeed. AngelosK
Joined Apr 17, 2014
0 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
cragman2 wrote:
WTF?? Clicked on your link and get an advertisment for health insurance or something


It's one of his sponsors, just a pop up you have to close and read the excerpt.
Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 3, 2015
Matt McDonald wrote:
It's one of his sponsors, just a pop up you have to close and read the excerpt.

Ok. Thanks
cragmantoo
Joined Mar 5, 2015
170 points
Nov 3, 2015
So "relationship angst" should be good for my climbing? If that is so I should be able to free solo Masherbrum's NE face!
😉
T340
From Idaho
Joined Oct 25, 2011
5 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
T340 wrote:
So "relationship angst" should be good for my climbing? If that is so I should be able to free solo Masherbrum's NE face! 😉


Send it! :)
Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
FrankPS wrote:
Thanks, Matt. That was a good read.

You're welcome, too good not to pass along
Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 3, 2015
Is a health insurance provider one of Alex Honnold's sponsors? That would be too rich. Nick Crews
Joined Nov 14, 2014
23 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Spur
Great, now I have to buy the book😉

Thanks for sharing
sean.haynes
Joined Aug 1, 2015
99 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Takin flight on the 'sky swing'
That damn badass. Though why date a woman in Dallas, or LA. Honnold should treat woman like mountains. Get in there,figure it all out,get comfortable with it,get on it,get over it. Then on to the next one. Stiles
From the Mountains
Joined May 21, 2003
887 points
Nov 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
great read grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Seize the day
"Being a Stride Member is like having a spotter" - Alex Honnold.

....Cool story, bro.
ColinW
From San Diego, CA
Joined Sep 17, 2014
71 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: ice'n
uggh.

that was hard to read.

its a shame mountaineering literature isn't what it used to be.

David Roberts should have thrown out just about all of what is written in this excerpt.

Honnold should stick to 140 characters or less.
christoph benells
From tahoma
Joined Nov 14, 2014
239 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
T340 wrote:
So "relationship angst" should be good for my climbing? If that is so I should be able to free solo Masherbrum's NE face! 😉


A friend of mine told me once that he did his best climbing during a hard divorce. I later found this to be true, personally, during my own divorce several years ago.

Angst is my spinach.
UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Killis Howard?
christoph benells wrote:
uggh. that was hard to read. its a shame mountaineering literature isn't what it used to be. David Roberts should have thrown out just about all of what is written in this excerpt. Honnold should stick to 140 characters or less.



Since Honnold's writinng is so horrible to you, what is an example of amazing 'mountaineering literature?'
Tim Lutz
Joined Aug 9, 2012
43 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Tim Lutz wrote:
Since Honnold's wring is so horrible to you, what is an example of amazing 'mountaineering literature?'


Mountain Project
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
449 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Relationship angst never helped my climbing abilities. Just my drinking abilities. erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
387 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: ice'n
David Roberts' "Mountain of My Fear" is great. christoph benells
From tahoma
Joined Nov 14, 2014
239 points
Nov 4, 2015
christoph benells wrote:
its a shame mountaineering literature isn't what it used to be.

Was the book supposed to be about mountaineering? Alex isn't an eloquent writer for sure, but I thought the passage was an honest & cerebral recount.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
reboot wrote:
Was the book supposed to be about mountaineering? Alex isn't an eloquent writer for sure, but I thought the passage was an honest & cerebral recount.


The book is a memoire, giving Alex's recount of his 8 best climbs (to date). There are several chapters that are more pure mountaineering, one about climbing in Alaska's Ruth Gorge and the other about his Fitz Traverse with Tommy Caldwell.
Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 4, 2015
christoph benells wrote:
David Roberts' "Mountain of My Fear" is great.


I've read that book. No complaints. I also liked this excerpt from Alex's book. I've both mountaineered and free soloed big routes. I actually found Alex's account to be honest and very engaging.

Seems to me your complaint stems from either not liking the subject matter or not liking the author. Fair enough. It's not an honest review though.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Nov 4, 2015
I assume this is where the following happened?
Rock Climbing Photo: Leah Sandvoss solving the crux of P11 (11d) on Rai...
Leah Sandvoss solving the crux of P11 (11d) on Rainbow Wall (Original Route). Photo by Andre Kiryanov

mountainproject.com/v/10765028...

"Four or five times I climbed up those ripples, surveyed the situation, and climbed back down. It was simply out of the question to jump for the jug. If you don’t catch the hold, you’re off and down . . . and dead.
Slowly an alternative dawned on me. Just in reach from the ripples was a tiny divot, a natural hole in the stone caused by a black iron-oxide intrusion. I could sink only about a third of the first digit of my left index finger into the divot, then stack my middle finger and my thumb on top of it. It would be the ultimate crimp, and I’m sure the divot had never been used before. Finally, I committed my whole weight to the jammed tip of my finger, smeared an opposing foot against the corner, and pulled. My finger in the divot held, and I grabbed the jug with my other hand. Strangely, instead of fear, I felt complete serenity as I made the move."
Legion
Joined Oct 13, 2010
92 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing in Hawaii
Legion wrote:
I assume this is where the following happened? mountainproject.com/v/10765028... "Four or five times I climbed up those ripples, surveyed the situation, and climbed back down. It was simply out of the question to jump for the jug. If you don’t catch the hold, you’re off and down . . . and dead. Slowly an alternative dawned on me. Just in reach from the ripples was a tiny divot, a natural hole in the stone caused by a black iron-oxide intrusion. I could sink only about a third of the first digit of my left index finger into the divot, then stack my middle finger and my thumb on top of it. It would be the ultimate crimp, and I’m sure the divot had never been used before. Finally, I committed my whole weight to the jammed tip of my finger, smeared an opposing foot against the corner, and pulled. My finger in the divot held, and I grabbed the jug with my other hand. Strangely, instead of fear, I felt complete serenity as I made the move."


that looks like the crux he's talking about. nice find!
Matt McDonald
Joined Jul 7, 2010
5 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a
Tim Lutz wrote:
Since Honnold's writinng is so horrible to you, what is an example of amazing 'mountaineering literature?'


I thought Kelly Cordes' "The Tower" was fantastic.
Jeff McLeod
Joined Nov 3, 2011
81 points


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