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Bulletheads South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Alegria S 
Black Book, The T 
Chasse Right S 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 
Xenolith Dance S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Thomson, 2000
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The climb follows the obvious slab above the stump...


This is a great, well protected pitch of slab climbing and thin edging. Start with some typical Squamish root pulling and get to the base of the slab with some stumps. The climbing is easy for the first third, but it gets pretty sustained and desperate for the middle part. There were three bolts in a row with fixed quicklinks! A bit of pure friction, but more just really thin edging. The climbing eases once you can start slapping the arete with your right hand. Put on some stiff shoes and have at it!


Get yourself to the base of Slot Machine. Walk left along a well defined path (don't go up and right!) for about 50 yards. You'll encounter a fixed rope along the way. The climb starts on the obvious slab just right of Cream of White Mice & Two Rats and a Titmouse.


14 draws + 2 for the anchor. A 70 m rope is MANDATORY and will only get you down to the stumps at the start of the climb. Have your belayer walk up the gully as they lower or just rap and clean. Tie knots!

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