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Ale 8 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ? tim kemple jr
Page Views: 1,527
Submitted By: Christopher Gagne on Jan 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This route is left of Giant Man and doesn't see much traffic. Climb the slab to big flakes, pull up into a roof with traversing, funkadelic moves. Go up through jugs to one last move for the anchors. You might have to clean your way up, but it is well worth it.

There is now a bolted mid anchor at the top of the slab, providing a nice 5.7 if stopping there.


good bolts

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2016
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 30, 2009

Named after the popular RRG cola, "Ale 8 One".
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

12 bolts to anchor
By M Sprague
From: New England
Dec 3, 2011

This would have been a lot better if it was cleaned properly when originally put up, and for many years the first bolt had it's hanger cannibalized so it never got any ascents, but it is a cool line with good moves. The approach slab is a good route in itself that should have a mid anchor at the top if it has not already been put in.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 24, 2012

From the description, it sounds just as fun as its neighbor. With a typical line for Giant Man, is it really just the lichen that keeps people from getting on this or what?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 24, 2012

It doesn't have the flow of Giant Man, but if cleaned up, it is definitely worth doing.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Jeff... you and me... Ale 8 and the Mean Lean... lets do it...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

i found it to be pretty tough but with amazing rests between the cruxes... the crux wasnt as fun as the other moves... its a little crumbly and indistinct... all the other rock was solid and aesthetic... i was happy to jam the finger crack to the top but i messed up my index fingers from jamming too hard... there are face holds too but i was too pumped for that :)
By cliffmama
Jun 25, 2012

Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 25, 2012

Yes. Chicken Head starts from lower down and to the left, and is more steep and featured. If Ale 8 now has a mid-anchor for the slab, that is great. 5.7 for the slab sounds about right from memory.
By caesar.salad
From: earth
Aug 10, 2015

BOLT ISSUE: Several of the bolts on the slab part of this route have loose nuts. Loose in that I could have taken them off with just my hands. I tightened them by hand as much as I could but did not have a wrench or a tool. Next time I am up there I will bring something if someone doesn't get to it sooner.
By Michael Swartz
Apr 28, 2016

Several very large holds felt hollow and poorly attached--I wouldn't recommend climbing this until someone cleans it up quite a bit.

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