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Main Alcove Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakfast of Champions T,TR 
Crispy 
Hammond Eggs 
High Traverse 
Kellogg's T,TR 
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) 
On the Box 
Over Easy 
Pop 
Scrambled 
Slippery Crimps 
Thank God Traverse 
Warm Up Traverse 

Main Alcove Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 25'
Location: 42.3234, -71.17437 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,213
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007
Forecast:
Overnight

60°
Thursday

79° | 65°
Friday

79° | 64°
Saturday

72° | 59°
Sunday

78° | 60°
Monday

85° | 65°
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Me on the Bathang, Russ McDonald with the spot.

Description 

This tiny bouldering area is probably fairly famous among New England climbers. Within this bit of rock are some quality moderates. Don’t let the moderate grades fool you. One famous climber broke his back here failing on the top out of a problem here. This is probably the most overhanging rock at Hammond Pond. Here's a nice shot from the MIT photo contest.

L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka), V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.

Right Wall
J. traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.

Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.

Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.

Beached Whale V6/7 upper left photo

In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.

Getting There 

At least in the old days, this is how we got there: this lies next west of Hammond Pond and is west of the Upper Walls. It is probably best to park close to the south side of Hammond Pond. From the parking south of Hammond Pond, take the dirt road and go left at the first fork. Continue to the next fork and near this fork, head almost straight west.

Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.

Updated List of Problems 

The above list has been described as outdated.

Hence, Chris will edit in an updated list here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Alcove Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Alcove Wall:
Scrambled   V-easy 3     Boulder   
Slippery Crimps   V1 5     Boulder, 8'   
Thank God Traverse   V1 5     Boulder, 8'   
Hammond Eggs   V3 6A     Boulder   
Kellogg's   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5     Trad, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch   
Breakfast of Champions   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13     Trad, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Alcove Wall

Featured Route For Main Alcove Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Breakfast.

Breakfast of Champions 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13  Massachusetts : Hammond Pond : ... : Main Alcove Wall
This is one of the fine, moderate, bouldering problems in the Alcove. Its overhanging nature and the potential nasty landing (pre-pad days) made it as much a mental challenge as a physical challenge. I understand one fine climber, Geoff, actually broke his back on this problem.The start isn't too bad. It's the last part of this problem that involves a long reach on less-than-buckets that make it challenging. I've come to understand it's considered V2-3 now, depending on one's...[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Photos of Main Alcove Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Alcove at Hammond Pond. December 2006.
The Alcove at Hammond Pond. December 2006.
Rock Climbing Photo: Busy day in the Alcove.
Busy day in the Alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading for the topout.
Heading for the topout.
Rock Climbing Photo: OJ. Starts at my crash pad and tops out at the cra...
BETA PHOTO: OJ. Starts at my crash pad and tops out at the cra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alcove.
Alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitting the jug at the Alcove.
Hitting the jug at the Alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex cruising a problem at the Alcove.
Alex cruising a problem at the Alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reedo working the Traverse on a cold night in Octo...
Reedo working the Traverse on a cold night in Octo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right wall of the Alcove on a rainy day.
Right wall of the Alcove on a rainy day.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Alcove, Hammond Pond.  Pad is below Over Easy ...
The Alcove, Hammond Pond. Pad is below Over Easy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the Alcove, Hammond Pond.
Entering the Alcove, Hammond Pond.

Comments on Main Alcove Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Ziemba
From: Watertown, MA
Aug 2, 2015
The description of how to get there from the parking lot South of Hammond Pond, is WRONG.

From parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.

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