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Alcove Crack T 
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Alcove Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Kevin with the fancy footwork on Alcove Crack.


This would be a really fun climb if it was clean, but as with many Rumney trad routes, it suffers from under use. It also can be a bit wet which adds to the problem. When dry its a fun jam up moderate crack. But as I said, a bit dirty.

Locate the obvious crack in the corner of the alcove. Jam up a steeper section and on to the lower angle top half. You used to have to belay from a pine tree, but now I'm sure there is an anchor you could borrow from one of the new sport routes in the area.


In the corner of the alcove area of Jimmy Cliff. To the right of things as they are etc and to the left of the newly bolted moderates on the right wall. It's a pretty obvious dirty crack.


Regular rack

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By doligo
Oct 24, 2009

As Lee stated, could've been an excellent climb if it was cleaner. At the moment it's dirty and wet - spices up the climb a grade maybe...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 11, 2012

Natasha and I climbed this today. We started up the corner and made a fun left heel rockover onto the big ledge where Easter Squall heads up. Surmounting another bulge, we escaped to the right and up the crack left of Things I Never Learned. We stole the bolted anchor above and both REALLY enjoyed the route. It was dry today and not dirty at all! It almost felt like someone cleaned it up... but I doubt that. I'd definitely climb it again.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 8, 2013

Many spiders. Fun moves, definitely needs cleaning as per everyone else's opinion!
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 18, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

It was fun, short and slightly awkward for the overhanging corner, but fun none-the-less. I'm giving it 3 cause it should be climbed more often if you're sick enough to carry trad gear all that way.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 18, 2017

"all that way", lol
By S. Neoh
Aug 18, 2017

"Dirty" and under-climbed was the inference when we walked by this year. More power to you for leading it!
Get with the program, Mark, anything more than 5 minutes is a sick approach. I demand routes I can belay from the comfort of my car. :)
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 18, 2017

If there were separate anchors at the top for this and TINL, I bet the hammock horde would welcome a visit from the bolt fairy and this route would collect dirt no more, joining the ranks of other hated/coveted "T,S" routes.

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