Alcohol Wall South Rock Climbing
A good winter wall for the moderate climber looking for classic 5.9's. Beware that most of the other routes on this wall are mixed, so take gear if you want to climb the 5.10's.
The majority of this wall is directly south facing, so this gets a good bit of winter sun from early morning to late afternoon. A small portion of this wall with some harder climbing is west facing, although you will be happy for cooler temps on these climbs.
From Left to Right the climbs are:
London Fog 5.11, Sport Public Intoxication
Climbing While Intoxicated (5.10b, mixed)
Brain Cramps (5.12 a/b, mixed)
Spinal Spasms (5.11, mixed) Barfly Blues
Meat Market (5.10c, Sport) Another Round
Get Shorty (5.11++, Sport) Power Play
As stated in the comment by Karl Kiser
, There are four additional routes on lower Alcohol Wall South. They are as follows from left to right:
Just Plain Stupid (5.7, mixed): Use gear at bottom. The route shares anchor and top two bolts with Plate Techtonics.
Plate Techtonics (5.10/5.10+, sport) Blitzed
(5.8, sport): shares anchor with Twisted Twisted
Hike past Major Wall and follow trails that wind steeply up to the cliff base. There are two trails that will take you to the wall, one of which involves some slight scrambling. Once you get near the cliff make take a right and scramble up a short section. (A left takes you to Pocket Change Wall). Duck underneath a tree and you will be at the start of Public Intoxication.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Alcohol Wall South
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Alcohol Wall South
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Alcohol Wall South:
Twisted 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch
Blitzed 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch
Meat Market 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
London Fog 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Alcohol Wall South
Power Play 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b New Mexico
: Socorro Area
: ... : Alcohol Wall South
A very unique sport climb. A mix of sidepulls and underclings with some technical and sequency moves thrown in. You would normally expect to find moves like this while traversing under a roof on a trad climb.Start up a blunt arete on easy ground past the first bolt to the second bolt. Now take a deep breath and figure out where your going. From here continue left past three bolts trying to stay fresh as each moves is harder than the last. The last clip on the traverse is quite difficult but...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Karl Kiser
Apr 25, 2008
There are four additional routes on lower Alcohol Wall South. They are as follows from left to right:
Just Plain Stupid 5.7 (mixed, gear at bottom)--shares anchor and top two bolts with Plate Techtonics.
Plate Techtonics 5.10/5.10+ (sport)
Blitzed 5.8 (sport)--shares anchor with Twisted
Twisted 5.8 (sport)