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The Cave Area
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  TR, 17'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,864
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The long move at the top.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

The Climb 

This east facing route is found via a short trail to the right of The Cave formation. It is an outstanding steep lieback on the right edge of the rock. Positive handholds lead to a lieback throw for the top (done static as well). Highly recommended


TR, bolts, see below

Photos of Alcoa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On Alcoa, 1986
On Alcoa, 1986
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxin' at sunset. Photo by Eden Anbar
Cruxin' at sunset. Photo by Eden Anbar
Rock Climbing Photo: alcoa
Rock Climbing Photo: Liebacking the top for the dynamic finish
Liebacking the top for the dynamic finish
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Alcoa (5.11c) during the '86 bouldering...
Climber on Alcoa (5.11c) during the '86 bouldering...
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up Alcoa (5.11c)
Setting up Alcoa (5.11c)
Rock Climbing Photo: Stariway to Heaven (L 5.12a) and Alcoa (R 5.11b/c)...
BETA PHOTO: Stariway to Heaven (L 5.12a) and Alcoa (R 5.11b/c)...

Comments on Alcoa Add Comment
Show which comments
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 9, 2007

I think there has been some controversy on the bolts on this climb (go figure). We were there today and no bolts. We used a grey alien and a medium nut among other gear so set a TR on this.
By Adam Stackhouse
Sep 10, 2007

The TR bolts are gone? Why? While nuts did work for years, the subsequent bolt installation worked even better for another several years. They will be replaced. Geez...
By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 28, 2007

The bolts have been gone for at least 4 years now. A friend and I tried to patch up the bad chop job a few years ago, but you can still see 'em.
It really isn't too hard to set up an anchor with gear, a set of small to medium nuts is all you really need.

If you are going to put in bolts though, consider using just one since there is a VERY easy gear placement that could serve as a backup if someone wants it. And really, if you're carrying a rope up there, it's not that hard to carry a few stoppers too. I can think of many other places at Woodson and in SoCal that need a bolt much more than the top of Alcoa. Save your money for something more deserving.
By Adam Stackhouse
Sep 29, 2007

Thanks for your comments. All of the above is true. I didn't know that the bolts had been gone for that long. Since so many of the Woodson's climbs have TR bolts, I don't think that it's too out of line to have them installed on this also. Carrying some nuts isn't uncalled for, just more or less uncommon. But what interests me more, is what problems at Woodson you thought "deserved" a bolt or two? Send me an email if you want, and we'll see what we can do!
By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 23, 2008

Off the top of my head: the anchor on; the mystery bolt boulder, hard as nails and the pair of arete climbs nearby, cool jerk (not that I'm climbing it), Manuel's Horror. You can get by without bolts on some of these, but they're way more of a pain in the butt to set up/get off than Alcoa is.
All and all though, I just don't want to see more chopped bolts up there. I do appreciate your interest in maintaining the area though.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Oct 19, 2009

I've only done the dyno,
but I think people have managed to continue to lieback up the arete further up.
By DannyJ
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 12, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Still no bolts up there. Bring a couple medium size nuts (I used a #8 and #10 BD). Height dependent move to the finish.
Feb 13, 2017

First ascent Dick Cilley

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